India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [480]
Set in the garden courtyard of Jhadol Haveli, The Whistling Teal (103 Bhatiyani Chohatta; 0294/242-2067 or 094-1416-3727) is one of the most romantic dining spots in Udaipur. Despite its lack of lake views, it’s a relative oasis. You can saddle up (literally) to the bar (seats are made of horse saddles), or chill out with a hookah (sheesha) pipe, sampling different flavored tobaccos. There are various seating areas, either on the lawn or under canopies, and you can sample an array of traditional Rajasthani dishes. The royal Jhadol family also organizes some of the most intriguing visits to rural areas, where you get to come to grips with the customs of the tribal Bhil people. For more information, visit www.jhadol.com.
Finally, if you’re after something light, healthy, and affordable, particularly for lunch, consider the ironically named Savage Garden (22 Inside Chandpole; 0294/242-5440), set over several floors of a pleasant building with cascading bougainvilleas and a towering banana tree in its blue-walled courtyard. Besides some standard Indian fare, you can order toned-down, simplified versions of traditional cuisine, such as “spinach mutton,” served with boiled potatoes (boiled, not fried!), or grilled fish with mash, and even an unusual vegetarian “Kela curry”: slices of banana in an onion-curd sauce, seasoned with fragrant spices from the south. There are basic, healthy salads and a few pasta dishes, not to mention a delicious mulligatawny soup. You’ll pay Rs 80 to Rs 250 for a main course.
SHOPPING
Udaipur has a number of attractive handicrafts. You’re probably best off purchasing them directly from small factories whose touts will beg you to visit, but beware that the commission system can add significantly to the price, so don’t buy the first beautiful thing you see. The main shopping streets run from the City Palace along Jagdish Temple Street to the clock tower and beyond to Hathi Pol. Good areas are Suraj Pol, Bapu Bazaar, Chetak, and Ashwini markets. Rajasthali (Chetak Circle; beware similarly named stores elsewhere), the government-run handicraft shop, is a good place to both pick up basic handicrafts and gauge fair prices. Mangalam (Sukhadia Circle; 0294/256-0259) is best for textiles, handicrafts, dhurries, and a variety of products.
If you’d like to contribute to local communities, visit the city showroom of Sadhna (Jagdish Temple Rd.; 0294/241-7454; www.sadhna.org) where you can browse hand-stitched garments, homewares, and linens. A purchase here means contributing to the income of 500 rural and tribal women who are involved in this enterprise. If you’re looking for silver, a great place to start is Boutique Jagat Nikhar at the Jagat Niwas hotel (see details above); here, Mr. Harish Arora offers advice on silver items, and his excellent collection comes with fixed prices. Udaipur is considered a good place to purchase miniature paintings (it has its unique style, but if you’re looking for a bargain, you’re better off purchasing in off-the-beaten-track towns, like Bundi) and pichhwai paintings—wall hangings painted on cloth or silk, often featuring scenes from Krishna’s life, that originated in Nathdwara; see “Top Excursions,” earlier in this chapter. Alternatively, you could pick up some of these at the City Palace Museum shop; the prices are higher but well worth the quality.
Further along the City Palace Road and on the same street as Jagdish Temple, is Ganesh Handicraft Emporium ( 294/252-3647), which occupies one of Udaipur’s oldest, most beautifully renovated havelis. With its cool marble floors, courtyards and ancient carved wooden guajarati doorframes it works perfectly as a store to browse through its uncongested and spacious rooms. The experienced and hassle-free owner brothers will offer you chai or cold water and will leave you to your own devices to wander around their