India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [491]
Other attractions are Gadsisar Tank, excavated by the Maharaja Gadsi Singh in 1367, which has a few temples and a chhattri (cenotaph) overlooking it, but is principally worth visiting to access the nearby Folklore Museum. The private museum contains some interesting exhibits, particularly the handcrafted items (look for the mobile temple, and the depiction of the tragic love story of Princess Moomal and King Mahendra, which, incidentally, is told in detail on the Palace Museum audio tour). Exhibits are not well labeled, however; if the proprietor, Mr. Sharma, is not on hand, a guide could prove useful here. The small entrance fee is not always charged, but do leave a donation; hours are 8am to noon and 3 to 6pm daily. A shop at the end of the museum sells reasonably priced postcards (and overpriced books).
The best way to experience Jaisalmer’s desert surrounds is on a camel safari (see below), many of which include the following places of interest. Amar Sagar is a small settlement with a palace and a restored Jain temple built around the shores of a lake that lies 5km (3 miles) northwest of Jaisalmer. Barra Bagh, which lies 6km (3 3⁄4 miles) north of town, is a collection of old and recent cenotaphs to Jaisalmer’s Rajput rulers, set paradoxically between two wind farms. Note the decrease in size of the recent structures (daily 6am—8pm Rs 50, cameras Rs 50). Another 10km (6 1⁄4 miles) north lies Lodurva, the capital of the Bhatti Rajputs from the 8th to 12th century, until it was devastated by Mohammed Ghori before Jaisalmer was built. The main attractions here are more restored Jain temples, with the usual fine carvings (daily 8am–6pm; Rs 20, camera Rs 50, video Rs 100). The entrance to Thar Desert National Park lies about an hour (45km/28 miles) from Jaisalmer, near Khuri. Wildlife you are likely to encounter include deer, desert fox, black buck, and the rare long-necked bird known as the Great Indian Bustard.
Tip: For the best views (and photographs) of the fort, the sprawling town below and the encroaching desert, make your way to Shuli Dungari on the northern side of the Fort. From here you can see the desert sun setting into the vast arid plains and have unencumbered views of the fort unspoiled by power lines and mobile network towers (which have been erected with scant regard for the towns profile) while the locals go about their business, kids fly kites and play on swings, and dinner is prepared.
Exploring the Golden Fort
Some 1,000 people still live in the tiny village inside Sonar Killa, or Golden Fort, which has twisting lanes so narrow they can be blocked by a single cow (be warned that these animals know that they have the right of way, so step aside, and watch their waste products too). Exploring the fort is easily done in a morning—you access the fort through Gopa Chowk, ascending the battle-scarred ramparts to enter the main courtyard, overlooked by seven-story Raja Mahal, or Maharaja’s Palace, which now operates as the Fort Palace Museum & Heritage Centre ( 02992/25-2981). Thanks to a brilliant audioguide tour, the palace has become one of the most alluring tourist attractions in the state, packed with information that not only brings to life the history of this unique place, but waxes vividly about the aristocrats who built and frequently defended it. It also does an excellent job of shedding light on intriguing aspects of regional culture. Set aside around 2 hours for the tour; admission is Rs 250 and includes the audioguide as well as still camera use (video is Rs 150)
After the palace, the other great reason to visit the fort is to check out the panoramas of the city below and the distant desert vistas (although a number of exquisite bird’s-eye views are afforded throughout the palace tour) from various perspectives. There are a number of interesting vantage points (a few are specifically marked), but do be aware that buskers may try to take advantage of you by starting up a tune and then insisting on a donation. Search for the many strategic cannon points