India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [497]
Gandhi Chowk, Mandir Palace (near the Amar Sagar Gate). 02992/25-2733. Main courses Rs 80–Rs 250. MC, V. Daily 11am–10:30pm.
Saffron RAJASTHANI One of the best night dining views of the fort, with its uplit buttresses, Nachana Haveli’s rooftop terrace serves authentic Rajasthani cuisine in pleasant surrounds (accompanied by local musicians) under the stars or under a shaded canopy (lunch). They also have a small, elevated private terrace at the back that you can request for a special romantic rendezvous. Start with the barbeque/tandoori kebabs (a trio of chicken, lamb, and fish) and move on to their signature organic free range lal maas and smooth, creamy (but with a bite) dal makhani. For something lighter go for the delicious local lake fish that can be either grilled or served in a mild, piquant curry and the vegetarian seekh or harabahra kebabs. Shakti will gladly share his impressive and deep knowledge of the local history, flora, and fauna, while Vikram, the elder brother, is a whiskey connoisseur and will gladly take you on a tasting tour of the local blended malts—be sure to eat first, and have a room downstairs before commencing this journey!
Nachana Haveli (Govardhan Chowk). 02992/25-2110. nachana_haveli@yahoo.com. Main courses Rs 60–Rs 180. MC, V. Daily 11am–10:30pm.
SHOPPING
Don’t miss the Jaisalmer Art Palace (near Patwon ki Haveli) for unique local Shoda family (migrants from Pakistan), Sindi and Megwar embroidery, and local dhurries. Just around the corner on the square is the Barmer Embroidery House (near Patwon ki Haveli); it’s owned by Abhimanyu Rathi, legendary for his fine eye for antique textiles. Designers have been known to cross the Thar just to plunder his exquisite selection. Jaisalmer is also famous for its wool products, particularly dhurries (rugs), as well as its fine hand embroidery, which turns average skirts and tops into real conversation pieces. Because the town is so easily explored, the best shopping experience is to set aside a morning and wander around, comparing prices before making your selection. Start by exploring the main Bhatia Market (begins at the entrance to the fort) and follow your nose. Note that Rangoli has a large collection of embroidered garments, particularly for children, and is a fixed-rate shop (you don’t have to bargain), which can be quite a relief. You’ll find it opposite the Bank of Baroda, in Gandhi Chowk.
Kanu Swami ( 98/2909-7319) is a skillful miniaturist who produces original and beautiful paintings, typically of birds and trees; you’ll see evidence of his affinity for nature in the near-microscopic detail that figures into his work. Not satisfied with portraits of trees featuring well over 4,000 individual leaves, he continues to attempt record-breaking images that have the quality of computer-generated graphic artworks but are executed with an artist’s touch. If you’d like to take home a painting that combines traditional skills with a contemporary look, spend some time surveying Kanu’s work; you’ll spend a mere Rs 800 for a beautifully crafted artwork that’s taken 2 full days to complete. Kanu’s workshop-cum-outlet is adjacent to the entrance of 8 July Restaurant (opposite the palace entrance).
For more upmarket designer selections, stop at Killa Boutique (Gandhi Chowk), run by Luca Borella of Killa Bhawan, where you can pick up stylish fashion accessories, scarves, and Western outfits made of Indian fabrics and prints.
A Scarce Resource
The very late, rather weak—and for some—absent monsoon rains of 2009 have been cause for alarm and panic in a country that 2 years ago endured a severe drought, especially when 70% of the nation is rural and relies substantially on subsistence farming and agriculture. Alongside shocking stats (Paddy Cultivation Area Shrinks by 20%; Distress Cattle