India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [499]
It’s got none of the heady sex appeal of Mumbai, and the first-time visitor may experience it as unpleasant and noisy, its history all but obscured by pollution, and its culture too urbanized. But stick around and you’ll find a city with its soul still intact, and refreshingly indifferent to the tourism that has transformed the more popular Indian states.
A fascinating window to Gujarati traditional culture and history, its industrious inhabitants play host to over 40% of India’s pharmaceuticals and textile businesses, and is a vital component of most other commercial and industrial enterprises. This would come as no surprise to it’s tolerant and progressive founder Ahmed Shah, who in 1411, inherited the Sultanate of Gujarat and judiciously relocated it from Patan to its current position on the ancient site of Ashaval and Karnawati, and named it after himself: the suffix “abad” means to prosper. Ahmed attracted traders, skilled artisans, and established a formidable merchant class. Although its fortunes waxed and waned on the back of famines and political unrest, prosper it certainly did, and in the late 19th century the city again rose to prominence as a huge textile centre similarly exporting valuable textiles. Congruously, while Gandhi was revitalizing and restructuring small-scale textile industry, its fame came from its role as a home to Gandhi’s famous ashram, which became synonymous with the Indian Freedom Movement. The last textile mills closed in the early 1970s and the economic hardship that followed most likely played a part in the communal and religious conflict in 2002.
ESSENTIALS
VISITOR INFORMATION Confusingly, you’ll find the main tourism office across the river from the main tourist attractions, on the west bank of the Sabarmati, in HK House, just off Ashram Road, 1km (1⁄2 mile) north of Nehru Bridge. (Mon–Sat 10:30am–1:30pm and 2–6pm, closed second and fourth Sat of the month; 079/2658-9172; www.gujarattourism.com). For more detailed advice on planning we highly recommend you contact the Gujarat specialists North West Safaris, whose operations manager Anil Bhagia and owner, the experienced travel writer Anil Mulchandani, will tailor make your trip (North West Safaris 113 Kamdhenu Complex, across from Sahjanand College, Panjarpole Cross Roads, Ambawadi, Ahmedabad; 079/26302019 or 26308031; fax 26300962; mobile 098240 72075; www.northwestsafaris.com).
GETTING AROUND Taxis and metered auto-rickshaws are ubiquitous and you can generally negotiate a day rate dependent on what you want to cover and for exactly how long. Ask your hotel to arrange or step out into the road and bargain. The Municipal Transport Service runs city bus tours from the bus stand at Lal Darwaja (9am–1pm, 1:30–5:30pm; Rs 60)
GETTING THERE & AWAY The easiest way to get here is to fly; check www.yatra.com for best prices. To and from the airport by prepaid taxi is Rs 250–Rs 300 and by auto-rickshaw is Rs 150. Alternatively, catch a train. If traveling from or to Mumbai, you will need to book the Gujarat Mail 8 hours 40 minutes, or Shatabdi Express (7 hr., 5 min.). To Delhi take the Ashram Express departing Ahmedabad at 5:45pm and arriving in Delhi 161⁄2 hours later. To Udaipur take the Udaipur City Express, which departs Ahmedabad at 11:05pm and takes 8 hours and 35 minutes. To Jodhpur hop on the Ranakpur Express at 12:25pm arriving at 9:45am the following day. If you are heading out to Kutch, the Nagari Express departs Ahmedabad