India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [511]
For further information, contact the Temple Manager ( 0183/255-3953, -3957, or -3958; fax 0183/255-3919), or call the Information Office ( 0183/255-3954). Daily 7:30am–7:30pm in summer and 8am–7pm in winter. Activity at the temple goes on till late, and even when the last ceremonies of the evening have been concluded, volunteers get to work by cleaning or preparing for the next day. The main gate never closes, and the Hari Mandir is open according to hours determined by the lunar cycle—some 20 hr. in summer and 18 hr. in winter. In summer, the closing ceremony takes place at 11pm and the sanctum is reopened at 2am; winter times are usually 9:30pm and 3am. Best to call and check, although your hotel or guesthouse will know all the details, too.
Spiritual Weight Lifting
The best time to visit The Golden Temple is during Palki Sahib , or the night ceremony, during which the Granth Sahib is carried from the main shrine in Hari Mandir to the sanctum, where it rests for a few hours until the opening ceremony the following morning. Any man can take part in this ceremony by joining one of the queues that form behind and ahead of the heavy palanquin on which the Holy Book is moved. Several devotees simultaneously help support each arm of the palanquin, giving each person a few seconds to take part in the auspicious event. As though it were being transported along a human conveyor belt, one person from each side moves away from the palanquin and is replaced by a new shoulder from each of the lines; in this way, everyone gets at least one chance to participate, and you can join the end of the line again and again until your shoulder refuses to cooperate.
Bloody History of the Holy Temple
In 1984, the Sikh fundamentalist Sant Bhindranwale and his followers armed themselves and occupied The Golden Temple as part of a campaign for a separate Sikh state, which they wanted to call Khalistan. Acting on Prime Minister Indira Gandhi’s orders, the Indian Army attacked, killing Bhindranwale and others and causing serious damage to the temple. Sikh honor was avenged when Indira Gandhi was later assassinated by two of her Sikh bodyguards, which in turn led to a massacre in which thousands of Sikhs lost their lives. The Sikh community refused to allow the central government to repair the damage to the temple, instead undertaking the work themselves. Although most of the cracks and crevices have been repaired, the incident has not been forgotten, and you will find many people in Amritsar keen to explain the Sikh side of the story.
Flag Ceremony at Wagah Border Direct from the Monty Python Ministry of Silly Walks, this early evening border closing ceremony has grown into one of the most spectacularly bizarre attractions in all of India. A thrillingly pompous display of military bravado, it attracts countless Indian tourists every day, and is some of the most delightfully fun modern-day events you’ll ever get around to witnessing in India. It’s an intricately choreographed high-kicking, toe-stepping, quick-marching ceremony wherein the Indian and Pakistani flags are lowered on either side of the only border that remains open between the two more-often-than-not hostile countries. As the event has grown into a full-blown spectator sport, organizers have added an emcee and laid on many more grandstands (and security measures) to ensure that each show is a mighty success, not to mention ego-stoking celebration of all things “Indian”—when we last visited, part of the warm-up included children dancing passionately to Jai Ho, the hit tune from Slumdog Millionaire, while whistle-blowing soldiers try their darndest to keep the crowd seated. A number of officers from each team put on a raised-eyebrow performance to the satisfaction of the cheering, chanting crowds, and the atmosphere is nothing short of electric. The pointless exercise ends with the furious slamming of the border gates, at which time each side’s flag is urgently carried to a room for overnight safekeeping. For anyone interested in unbridled nationalist pride,