India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [513]
No. 10, Cantonment, Amritsar 143 001. 0183/222-8509. Fax 0183/222-2390. http://bhandari_guesthouse.tripod.com. bgha10@gmail.com. 16 units. Rs 1,600 double, Rs 1,900 double with A/C and heater; Rs 300 extra bed. Camping Rs 170 per person with own equipment. MC, V (3% surcharge). Amenities: Restaurant; beer fridge, TV lounge; airport transfers (Rs 550–Rs 850); camping facilities; children’s play area; Internet (broadband; Rs 40/hr.); large outdoor pool (open Mar–Nov); limited room service. In room: A/C, heater, fireplace (extra charge).
Ranjit’s Svaasa After the hustle and bustle of Amritsar’s traffic-choked streets, returning to this pretty, professionally run boutique hotel is sheer bliss. The owners have transformed a 250-year-old colonial redbrick mansion into a haven of small town refinement, carving out a tiny, sensuous spa and developing a selection of appealing suites, each with heaps of character—antiques, artworks, and thoughtful touches (like organic towels and jute slippers)—that make the place stand out as the most intimate and special place to stay in Amritsar. Rooms are furnished with colonial-era furniture (including four-poster beds) and open onto a cool balcony overlooking a landscaped garden. Pleasant accommodations aside, the focus here is on serving delicious, healthy, organic food and pampering you at the spa: we wouldn’t dare leave without having at least one of the authentic Ayurvedic treatments; before visiting the Golden Temple, detoxify your system with a lime and ginger aromatherapy session. There’s no longer a pool (Amritsar is bitterly cold in winter anyway), but with its comfortable lounges and nooks, you need not even notice.
47A The Mall, Amritsar 143 001. 0183/256-6618 or 0183/329-8840. Fax 0183/500-3728. www.svaasa.com. spa@svaasa.com. 17 units, most with shower only. Rs 6,000 Rai Bahadur double; Rs 8,000 Svaasa Suite double, Rs 10,000 Ratnavali Suite double; Rs 16,000–Rs 18,000 Presidential Suite (2–4 guests); Rs 1,500 extra bed. Rates exclude 4% tax. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant, TV lounge; airport transfers (Rs 850); Ayurvedic spa; small library; organic health shop; room service; Wi-Fi (in lounge and lobby; free); yoga and meditation. In room: A/C, TV (in some), DVD (in Presidential suite), fridge (in some), hair dryer.
WHERE TO DINE
That the people of Amritsar live to eat is obvious from the scores of dhabas, Punjabi-style “fast-food” joints serving tasty and filling thalis (multicourse platters), that showcase various traditional dishes everywhere. This is the land of desi-ghee (clarified butter) and butter, added to almost every dish: Those watching their weight or unable to consume rich, heavy food should take it easy on the Indian fare here. But if you’re up for the adventure, this is a culinary exploration like few others in India, where for as little as Rs 50 you’ll be served a sizable spread that you eat with your fingers, dipping piping-hot parathas (fried flatbread) into maa ki dal, channa, and other concoctions arranged in little heaps on your platter.
If you’re looking for a clean, glitzy restaurant that serves a wide range of dishes, then the one just about everybody in town will steer you to, is Crystal (Crystal Chowk, Queens Rd.; 0183/222-5555 or -9999), which is the most famous restaurant in Amritsar. It may not win any awards for atmosphere, and service is atrocious (especially on weekends and after 8:30pm when the place is usually packed), but it’s the most popular “upmarket” restaurant in town. The menu is eclectic, with the standard array of Chinese and Continental dishes thrown in, but we suggest you stick to what they’re really good at: North Indian specialties like the delicious malai tikka. Although it doesn’t yet have quite the same legacy, another contender worth considering is Astoria: Tucked into a posh colony and run