India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [52]
For a truly exclusive train journey board the private The Viceroy of India—aka The Darjeeling Mail Tour—which runs just one or two 15-day trips a year from Mumbai to Calcutta via Jaipur, Delhi, Varanasi, and Darjeeling, and is priced at $22,790 (Viceroy class) or $34,390 (Maharaja suite) double (www.gwtravel.co.uk).
Getting to the hill stations of Shimla (Himachal Pradesh), Darjeeling (West Bengal), Matheran (Maharashtra), or Ooty (Tamil Nadu) can be a scenic novelty if you don’t mind spending long hours traveling in the atmospheric “toy trains” that chug their ways along narrow-gauge tracks to high altitudes by way of an endless series of hairpin loops—fabulous views are guaranteed. And then, of course, there is the Konkan Railway, which runs along the Malabar coast and has truly wonderful scenery almost every click-clack of the way.
By Bus
Unless you are on a serious budget and traveling in India for months, we recommend you avoid all forms of bus travel. Often crammed full of commuters, state-operated buses are driven at bloodcurdling speeds along dangerous and punishing roads. Numerous so-called deluxe or luxury buses, operated by private companies, often ply similarly dangerous routes overnight. You may be tempted to save time and money with this option, but be aware that safety is rarely a priority, and sleeping is almost impossible thanks to generally uncomfortable seating and/or noise. Regular stops at roadside truck stops along the way will have you arriving at your destination bleary-eyed and exhausted, wondering why you’ve opted for a vacation in hell; on one of our most recent trips we were horrified to witness a “luxury” bus windshield shatter midjourney, and the driver simply continued on (through the night) till he reached his destination. On some routes (such as Delhi-Jaipur or Kochi-Bengaluru), the exception is the comfortable “Volvo” bus with good suspension and skilled drivers. Another exception is the Manali-to-Leh route, where the Trans-Himalayan scenery is jaw-droppingly awesome, and an overnight stop in tents is part of the deal . If you do decide to take a bus, a good place to search for deluxe (or “luxury”) private services and book them online is www.ticketvala.com.
Note: Buses in India do not have onboard toilets (thankfully, given the state of so many of these on trains), so stops are usually at grimy roadside dhabas (local diners) or just along the side of the road.
4 Money & Costs
The Value of the Indian Rupee (Rs) vs. Other Popular Currencies
Frommer’s lists exact prices in the local currency. The currency conversions quoted above were correct at press time. However, exchange rates fluctuate dramatically. At press time, US$1 bought you around Rs 49, and 1 euro equaled almost Rs 70, while £1 was worth around Rs 80. Bear in mind that in spite of the falling dollar/euro, a few dollars, pounds, or euros go a long way in India. For up-to-the-minute currency conversions, log on to www.xe.com/ucc or www.oanda.com/convert/classic to check the latest rates.
You cannot obtain Indian currency anywhere outside India, and you may not carry rupees beyond India’s borders. You may have to exchange at least some money at the airport upon your arrival; change just enough to cover airport incidentals and transportation to your hotel, since the rate will be quite unfavorable.
It’s always advisable to bring money in a variety of forms on a vacation: a mix of cash, credit cards, and traveler’s checks—although the latter can really prove to be a nuisance and should really only be used as a backup. Be sure to bring more than one kind of credit card since certain cards may not work in smaller towns or at certain ATMs.
In many international destinations, ATMs offer the best exchange rates. Avoid exchanging money at commercial exchange bureaus and hotels, which often have the highest transaction fees.
CURRENCY
Indian currency cannot be obtained before