India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [545]
Where to Stay
Taragarh Palace (reviewed below), Palampur’s famous heritage hotel has now become something of a sprawling resort catering to groups; if you’d prefer to be in the midst of a tea plantation, rather than encountering busloads of tourists, consider holing up at the family run Country Cottage (Chandpur Tea Estate; 01894/23-0647;www.countrycottageindia.com; Rs 2,800–Rs 4,000 double), set in the cantonment area of Palampur amid a 20 hectare (50-acre) organic tea garden. It’s a simple, unpretentious, low-key operation with just a handful of cottages and the emphasis firmly on appreciating your surroundings rather than on exciting accommodations. At press time, two brand-new cottages were due to open, and these (more expensive) units with the best location will be the ones to book. The owner is a veritable font of information (on tea, among other things—with a couple of days he’ll even let you make your own), and puts together all kinds of interesting excursions, including an innovative anthropological tour that investigates various tribes in the Kangra Valley; he’ll also point you towards some wonderful local treks and organize mahaseer fishing expeditions. Besides staring out into the gardens and trying different teas, there’s not very much to do at the cottages—definitely bring books.
The Judge’s Court This atmospheric Indo-European haveli, architecturally detailed with domes, galleries, terraces, and porticoes, is filled with the sort of tranquil charm that whisks guests straight back into a bygone age. Set on a magnificent property with orchards of mango, litchi, plum, persimmon, and citrus-fruit trees, the main manor house was built in 1918 by a descendant of Pragpur’s founders as a gift for his son, a well-known judge of the Punjab High Court. Laboriously restored, the hotel offers a variety of accommodations, including the swish new “Residency” wing at the back of the property. Best to go for one of the spookily romantic heritage suites, each with it’s own special charm—fireplaces, plush armchairs, original antiques, and chunky furniture throughout. Between exploring the village and tucking into extravagant multicourse meals, try to spend some time chatting with the owner, Vijay Lal—his spirited conversation is always a highlight of our time in the Kangra Valley.
Heritage Village Pragpur, Tehsil Dehra, District Kangra 177 107. Info 01970/24-5035 or -5335. Reservations: 3/44, Shanti Niketan, New Delhi 110 021. 011/2411-4135. Fax 011/2411-5970. www.judgescourt.com. 17 units, plus 3 self-contained apts. in the village. Rs 4,500 deluxe double, Rs 5,200 Residency double, Rs 6,000 heritage suite; Rs 1,000 extra bed. Rates exclude 10% tax. Breakfast Rs 250, lunch Rs 350, dinner Rs 450. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; 3 lounges, bar service; cultural performances; small pool. In room: A/C and fans, TV (in most), fireplace (in most), fridge, heater, no phone.
Taragarh Palace Hotel Once known as Al Hilal (The Land of the Crescent Moon), this Art Deco mansion (now described as the Heritage Wing) was built in the 1930s as the summer resort of the Nawab of Bahawalpur until he fled to Pakistan after Partition. One of the least-visited destinations in the heart of the scenic and serene Kangra Valley, Taragarh is enveloped in thick vegetation, moss-covered walls, and gorgeous grounds. Before the addition of the bland Palace Wing (frankly, a very unsympathetic appendage, in style an appalling imitation of the original), Taragarh was the ideal setting for a brooding Agatha Christie whodunit, the mansion is all high ceilings, broad staircases, chandeliers, and long passages lined with family portraits, Buddhist thangkas, and animal skins. Book the characterful Maharajah, Maharani, or Princess suites—smart, spacious,