India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [556]
Where to Stay
Capital of Ladakh during the 15th century, the village of Tingmosgang—80km (50 miles) west of Leh on the Likkir-Kheltsi trekking route—doesn’t see too much action these days, but does have one of Ladakh’s better village accommodation options. Namra Hotel ( 01982/22-9033 or 94-1917-8324; namrahotel@gmail.com) has clean and comfortable rooms with warm beds, attached bathrooms and hot water, and there are great Himalayan views; the hotel also has a traditional Ladakhi kitchen. It’s off the well-trodden tourist path, but makes an excellent alternative base from which to explore Lamayuru, Alchi, Basgo, and Likkir—Tingmosgang Palace is a 15-minute walk from here, and you’re within easy reach of Leh, too.
In Lamayuru, the best place to stay is the relatively new Hotel Moonland ( 94-1988-8508, 01982/22-4551, or 01892/22-4576; Morup_moonland@rediffmail.com; open May 25–Sept). It’s a pleasant family run affair with simple rooms (most with attached bathrooms and hot showers) in a cluster of small Ladakhi-style buildings arranged around a little vegetable garden a short distance from the main village, but within striking (and viewing) distance of the monastery. Ask for one of the new upstairs rooms (due to open in early 2010), which will have the best view. The owner, Morup Dorje, is a Lamayuru local and can make arrangements for treks out to nearby villages; he charges Rs 1,500 for a double room including all meals (around Rs 800 without food) which feature vegetables that his ancient, traditionally attired mother grows here.
Gompas & Palaces South of Leh
Venturing south of Leh along the same road that goes all the way to Manali, you can take in a number of monasteries, and one or two Ladakhi palaces. Located across from Choglamsar on the opposite side of the Indus, Stok Palace (Rs 25; May–Oct daily 8am–7pm) is the only inhabited palace in Ladakh, home to the 74th generation of the Namgyal dynasty. The land-holding rights of Stok were granted to the royal family by General Zorawar Singh in 1834 when he deposed Tshe-spal-Namgyal, the Gyalpo (king) of Ladakh. It’s an imposing complex, with around 80 rooms, only a few of which are still used by the current widowed Gyalmo (queen), who is sometimes in residence with her immediate family. Several rooms are taken up by the modest museum housed in one section. Museum highlights include a vast thangka collection, weapons, jewels, and, of special note, the queen’s perak, a turquoise-studded headdress. The ghostly Buddhist shrine is an experience not to be missed.
Fifteen kilometers (9 miles) from Leh, Shey Palace and Monastery (May–Oct daily 8am–7pm) is worthwhile for the gompa, but the palace is little more than crumbling ruins. Thikse Gompa (daily 6am–6pm) located 25km (16 miles) south of Leh, is a striking 12-story edifice with tapering walls that sits atop a craggy peak. From here you get magnificent views of the valley, strewn with whitewashed stupas. Note that 6am morning prayers at Thikse are worth rising early to witness (but it’s quite popular with tourists so don’t expect to see it alone).
Hidden from the world on a remote verdant hillock, Hemis Gompa (45km/28 miles from Leh) is considered the wealthiest Ladakhi monastery, its atmospheric prayer and assembly halls rich with ancient relics and ritual symbols. During the summer season in June and July, the monastery comes alive for the annual Hemis Tsechu, a (now very commercial) festival commemorating Guru Padmasambhava’s birth. Masked dancing by the lamas and ritual dramas are played out in the courtyard, and the locals sell Ladakhi handicrafts and jewelry; unfortunately, hordes of hawkers also trudge in from all over the country to push their wares, somewhat diminishing the visibility of local people. Every 12 years, a magnificent