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and “the runs” to extreme cases of nausea, fever, and delirium. To avoid this, simply be sensible. Adjust slowly; move on to spicy foods in small doses. You should also be on your guard about where you eat; if you have any fears at all, stick to the upmarket restaurants, usually those in five-star hotels—but do venture out to those recommended in this guide. Remember that uncooked vegetables or fruit can be hazardous if washed in water that has not been boiled, so peel all your own fresh fruit and avoid salads. Unless you’re in an upmarket hotel, don’t eat fruit that has already been cut—any water on the knife or on the skin of the fruit is likely to seep into the flesh. Be wary of undercooked meats—they may harbor intestinal worms—and stay away from pork unless you’re in a five-star hotel.

The first thing to bear in mind when diarrhea or nausea strikes is that your body is trying to cleanse itself, so only use an antidiarrhea medication (like Imodium) if you are desperate—about to embark on a long train journey, for example. Ideally, you should plan a few days of rest and cut back on all food except plain basics (a diet of boiled rice and bananas is ideal), and drink plenty of boiled water (or black tea) or bottled water with rehydration salts. If your tummy trouble doesn’t clear up after 3 to 4 days, consult a physician—you may be suffering from something more serious: a protozoa (amoeba or giardia) or a viral or bacterial infection.

WATER CONCERNS More than anything else in India, the water is likely to make you ill. For this reason, you should not only avoid untreated drinking water, but be on your guard against any food product that is washed with water or has had water added to it. When buying tea (or chai) on the streets, for example, check that the cup is washed with hot water and even ask to dry it yourself—carry a small cloth or napkins so that you can remove any water from anything that is going to go into your mouth; alternatively, carry your own stainless steel cup everywhere you go. Use bottled water when you brush your teeth, and do not open your mouth in the shower. Do not have ice added to your drink unless you’ve been assured that it’s purified (as is typical of upmarket hotels and restaurants). Do be aware that in summer it is not uncommon for vendors selling lassi (a deliciously refreshing yogurt drink) to mix ice into their concoctions, and be exceptionally wary of enticing marketplace drinks such as freshly squeezed sugar-cane juice, which will be mixed with untreated water. If you purchase bottled water from roadside stalls, dodgy-looking shops, or small towns, check the seal on the cap and investigate the bottle for any signs of tampering. Also try to determine the age of the packaged water; if it looks like it’s been sitting on the shelf for too long, avoid it. The only exception to the bottled water rule may be if you are 100% sure the water has been boiled for 20 minutes, or if you have been assured that the water has been filtered or treated with reverse osmosis or some similarly effective process. Generally, where water is placed in your room in a jug or some such container it has indeed been treated and is drinkable. If you are in the slightest doubt, simply ask. The same goes for street food stalls in larger cities where there is awareness around the dangers of drinking untreated water—simply ask if the water is filtered or not. Remember not to clean wounds, cuts, or sores with tap water. Instead, douse and cleanse any open wound with antiseptic solution, cover it with an adhesive bandage, and consult a doctor if it doesn’t heal soon. Note: A large number of restaurants and hotels have begun to take the issue of plastic bottles and their impact on the environment very seriously. We all know and understand that water bottled in plastic is cause for environmental concern. We strongly suggest that you make an effort to cut down on the number of plastic bottles that make their way to India’s landfills (or rivers or valleys) by encouraging the use of treated water wherever possible—and give your