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ft.), a small pilgrim town at the confluence of the Bhagirathi and Kedar Ganga rivers, in the shadow of Mount Sudarshan (6,500m/21,325 ft.), some 98km (60 miles) from Uttarkashi. One popular trek from Gangotri goes along Kedar Ganga Valley, to Kedartal, a gorgeous lake surrounded by mountain peaks. But arguably the most beautiful Garhwal trek is the 26km (16-mile) hike that takes you along a gradual ascent from Gangotri, along the Bhagirathi, to Gaumukh , which is where the river has its source in the Gangotri Glacier—here the water gushes out from a small amphitheater carved out of the 15- to 20m (50–65-ft.) ice walls. En route, you pass through scenic alpine forests near Chirbasa, following an ancient pilgrimage route; a panorama of snowcapped peaks accompanies you throughout. At night, you camp on the banks of the embryonic Ganges, known here as the Bhagirathi. Beyond Gaumukh, you can cross the glacier to reach the high-altitude meadows of Tapovan and Nandanvan; note that the route to Tapovan varies with the constant downward movement of the glacier. You can schedule the full trek to last anywhere between 6 and 9 days; longer if you wish to explore the meadows and glaciers at the foot of Hinduism’s center of the universe, Mount Meru. Another short and fabulous option is the Chopta/Tungnath hike which can be done in a relaxed 5 days, including travel time to/from Delhi. The high altitude meadows are breathtaking and with the quaint temple at Tungnath, a walk to the Chandrashila Pass and camping without any concrete around, this is a great option.

There are a number of reputable operators organizing treks in Garhwal but our number one choice is Aquaterra Adventures India ( 011/2921-2641 or -2760; www.treknraft.com), not least for their highly professional and reliable service. Other good options are Himalayan Eco Adventure ( 01389/222-446 or -252; based in Joshimath) and Garhwal Himalayan Explorations ( 0135/244-2267 or -2667; www.thegarhwalhimalayas.com; based in Rishikesh).

Kumaon One of the best-known and simplest routes in the Kumaon is the Pindari Glacier Trek , a fairly moderate trek that lasts up to 8 or 9 days and can easily be combined with a sojourn in or near Corbett National Park. A shorter trek takes you on a 20km (12-mile) climb through Valley of Flowers National Park , high up in the Himalayas. Between June and September, hundreds of species of flowers—many of them rare alpine varieties—cover the valley floor, through which the Pushpawati River flows. We recommend Nainital’s Parbat Tours ( 05942/23-5656) for organized treks in the Kumaon.

1 Garhwal

Sacred source of the Ganges, the western part of Uttarakhand is where Hindu devotees come on mountain yatras (pilgrimages) to Badrinath, Kedarnath, Gangotri, and Yamunotri. Westerners tend to head straight for Rishikesh, said to be the “birthplace” of yoga, and made famous by the Beatles, who visited what was then a peaceful village back in the 1960s. As a result, scores of garish concrete ashrams and temples line the banks of the Ganges here, drawing thousands of visitors seeking their own yogis and tantric enlightenment, as well as hippies and backpackers keen to contemplate life, the universe, and everything through an edifying cloud of hash smoke. Up in the hills, with staggering views of the vast Doon Valley and western Garhwal’s Himalayan peaks, Mussoorie is the quintessential Raj-era hill station, but it gets crowded and detestable in summer (and on weekends), packed with honeymooning and vacationing domestic tourists who send the decibel level skyrocketing. In winter, however, much of its near-haunted charm returns.

ESSENTIALS

GETTING THERE & AWAY By Air Dehra Dun’s Jolly Grant Airport is a 55-minute flight from Delhi; the most reliable airline flying into Jolly Grant is Kingfisher Airlines ( 1800-309-3030;www.flykingfisher.com). From there, catch a taxi to either Mussoorie or Rishikesh, or have your hotel pick you up; transfer rates are included in reviews where possible.

By Train Mussoorie: Dehra Dun is the terminus of the Northern Railway, and