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in 120 countries, but their selfless efforts are not without controversy. Even during Mother Teresa’s time, tales of pecuniary troubles and controversies over the way in which the poor and dying were being treated (and converted) beleaguered the MOC. There have always been plenty of cynics, despite the Vatican’s confirmation of Mother Teresa’s “miraculous” healing of a young woman’s malignant tumor (the woman claims to have been cured after seeing Mother Teresa in her dreams), a move that has irritated rationalists and the medical profession. Still, in Kolkata alone, more than 50,000 destitute sick and dying are looked after by the blue-and-white-sari-wearing nuns of the MOC, a demonstration of selflessness that you might deem miraculous in itself. Adjacent to the Kali Temple is “Pure Heart,” or Nirmal Hriday (251 Kalighat Rd.; 033/2464-4223; Fri–Wed 8–11:30am and 3–5:30pm), the very first MOC center. Mother House (54 A.J.C. Bose Rd.; 033/2249-7115; same hours as Nirmal Hriday) is the MOC headquarters, where Mother Teresa is buried. Nearby is Nirmal Shishu Bhawan (78 A.J.C. Bose Rd.; same hours as Nirmal Hriday), where some 250 orphans are cared for.

Day 2 (North Kolkata)

Early in the morning, head toward Howrah Bridge, where you can witness people bathing at the ghats (steps leading down to the Hooghly River) or the pandemonium at the colorful flower market (you need to arrive before 7am). There you can sip chai and watch the stall holders deftly thread marigold garlands for the gods and bridal headgear from tuberoses and dahlias. Crossing over Howrah Bridge, head toward the Belur Math Shrine (see below). From here you can either incorporate a short stop at popular Dakshineshwar Temple (across Vivekananda Bridge; 033/2564-5222; daily 6:45am–12:30pm and 3:30–8:30pm), or take a look at the potters’ village at Kumartuli (N. Chitpur Rd.), a warren of alleys where clay deities and images of Mother Teresa are produced by the thousands. If you prefer to slow the pace, however, skip these and head south to beautiful Paresnath Temple (see below)—not as famous as the Kali temple, but certainly Kolkata’s prettiest, and north Kolkata’s star attraction. From here, you can head east to shop and eat at Swabhumi Heritage Plaza, a mall with 2.4 hectares (6 acres) of shopping, dining, and entertainment diversions; or head south to Rabindra Bharati University Museum ( 033/2269-5241; Rs 50; Tues–Sun 10:30am–4:30pm; no photography) to visit the Rabindranath Tagore House Museum. Born to a wealthy entrepreneurial family in 1861, Tagore remains Bengal’s best-loved artist and intellectual, and his home is filled with artworks and collectibles (closed Sun, and open only until 1:30pm on Sat). Move on to the nearby Marble Palace (see below).

By now, you may be in serious need of sustenance, which you’ll find in the vicinity of the enormous Nakhoda, Calcutta’s largest mosque (Rabindra Sarani and M.G. Rd.). The mosque is closed to non-Muslims during prayers, but is set within a busy bazaar area where Muslim trades people sell all sorts of goods, as well as a range of breads, sweetmeats, and snacks. Alternatively, enjoy a cheap, substantial Kolkata-Mughlai meal at the century-old Royal Indian Hotel (147 Rabindra Sarani; 033/2268-1073; daily 9am–11:30pm). Browse through the thousands of bookstalls along College Street, and finish with coffee at the Indian Coffee House (see below).

Top Attractions

Belur Math Shrine The headquarters of the international Ramakrishna Order, Belur Math combines the architectural elements of a church, a mosque, and a temple, symbolically embodying the teachings of the monk and seer Sri Ramakrishna Paramahansa. It was established in 1897, and the ashes of Sri Ramakrishna were placed here by his most prominent disciple, Swami Vivekananda, who also set up the Order. The location is lovely: Smaller shrines line the riverbank, and devotees and seekers of spiritual peace roam the grounds. Within the immaculate main shrine, activity is enlivened by evening aarti (musical prayers).

Belur Rd., Howrah. 033/2654-5700. Daily 6:30