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India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [590]

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can ask for a room with a view of the Victoria Memorial. Club Rooms (top floor) have added space (thanks to a window alcove), personal butler service, and access to posh lounges and exclusive restaurants (with strict dress codes) where the city’s elite plot and play. The “gentlemen’s club” ambience in the residents’ lounge goes down well with a game of pool, a book from the small library, or time at the Internet bar.

34B Belvedere Rd., Alipore, Kolkata 700 027. 033/2223-3939. Fax 033/2223-1766 or -8805. www.tajhotels.com. calcutta@tajhotels.com. 229 units. Rs 19,500 deluxe double; Rs 21,000 luxury double; Rs 24,000 Taj Club; Rs 30,000 executive suite; Rs 45,000 luxury suite; Rs 80,000 presidential suite; Rs 1,000 extra bed. Rates include breakfast. Rates up to 50% lower Apr–Sept. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; bar; tea lounge; airport transfers (Rs 1,875; free with suites); concierge; currency exchange; in-house doctor; health club; pool; room service. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (Rs 200/hr., Rs 600/day).

The Tollygunge Club Far from the stereotypical hotel experience, this former home of a British Planter, and subsequently the exiled family of the late Tipoo Sultan of Mysore, has been voted one of the top 20 clubs in the world, and is the most unusual place to stay in Kolkata. Lush grounds abound with exotic bird and plant life, and even a family of hyenas which sing for the guests at twilight every day. Add to that the sporting facilities, affordable alcohol, great dining options (legendary steak kebab and chicken masala-toast) and old-world charm. Service is laid back and rooms are comfortable but not plush—opt for the suites facing the golf course, or the cottages (very large double rooms with a separate sitting area). A great oasis with quirky fellow guests but it’s a 30-minute drive from the city center and note that collared shirts for men and proper footwear are required in the more formal areas.

120, Deshapran Sasmal Rd., Kolkata 700 033. 033/2417-6022. www.thetollygungeclub.com. Reservations: Glenburn ( 033/2288-5630 or 98-3007-0213). 66 units (with showers). Rs 5,000 single or double, including breakfast and taxes. MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; 4 bars; lounge; billiards; bridge room; doctor-on-call; 18-hole golf course; health club; horse riding; Internet (Rs 33/30 min); ice-cream parlor; outdoor/indoor/heated pool; room service; outdoor tennis; ayurvedic spa; squash. In room: A/C, TV, fridge.

Vedic Village For those yearning for a taste of the famous vigorous and oily massage, the Vedic Village is a boon. Located just 20 minutes from the airport and about an hour from the city, it is a collection of thoughtfully landscaped villas, suites, studios, and farmhouses—the interiors for most are a little bland but the deluxe lake villas and earth villas are quite decent with extremely spacious bathrooms. Local materials like bamboo and grass coexist with state of the art massage chairs; a lovely lake acts as a centerpiece, while cabbages grow boisterously amid blooming flowers. The lotus-shaped pool is their pride but we found it lacked privacy, specially since there are eight conference rooms in the area. The USP is decidedly the medical spa—it is the only one of its kind hereabouts and offers long-term naturopathy and Ayurvedic therapies as well as cosmetic and relaxing treatments—ideal for a quick stopover before taking your flight back home.

PS Rajarhat PO Bagu, Shikharpur, Rajarhat, Kolkata 700 135. 03216/27-2760 or 98308-20445. Fax 033/2287-1311. www.thevedicvillage.com. 200 units. Rs 5,000 studio; Rs 6,000 deluxe resort bungalow room/standard suite; Rs 7,000 1-bedroom suite; Rs 10,000 2-bedroom suite; Rs 10,000 earth villa; Rs 12,000 deluxe villa; rates include breakfast for 2 persons and taxes. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; airport transfer (Rs 850); doctor-on-call; health club and spa; outdoor pool; room service. In room: A/C, TV, Internet (Rs 50/30 min.), massage chairs in villas, minibar.

WHERE TO DINE

Bengalis are known for their fine palates and love

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