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become an institution by itself. Other than having a cuppa, you can also purchase excellent quality tea and as Dolly herself will tell you, “India has the best tea in the world, so why look elsewhere?” Hugli (Hastings Court, 96 Garden Reach Rd.; 033/2489-2104) and Khazana at the Taj Bengal hotel are two good options for handicrafts as well; although the prices are high, quality is excellent. If you feel you can lug some heavier stuff back home, drop in at Minnoli (Karnani Estate, Unit G-I 209, AJC Bose Rd.; 033/2289-1307), where owner Sharad Narula shows his obvious passion for antique furniture. Proud of a collection that includes everything from silver spoons dating from the first World War to 60-year-old glass lamps, Minnoli encapsulates the very spirit of Kolkata.

Inevitably, Kolkata is also home to one of India’s best bookstores, Oxford Bookstore (17 Park St., Kolkata; 033/2229-7662 or 033/2217-5266; www.oxfordbookstore.com), which carries a good range of local and imported periodicals, books on India and Kolkata, and fiction. Another shop worth investigating is Family Book Shop (1A Park St.; 033/2229-3486 or 033/3290-6003); it’s tiny but has an interesting upstairs section. You can also try Crossword on Elgin Road or Starmark on Lord Sinha Road.

KOLKATA AFTER DARK

Drinking & Partying

Kolkata is officially dry on Thursday, but this doesn’t affect the upscale hotels. Local laws supposedly prohibit the sale of alcohol after 10:30pm, so if you’re up for an all-nighter, be sure to ask the exact time for last rounds at any bar you visit. In the budget-oriented Sudder Street precinct, the open-air bar at the Fairlawn Hotel (13/A Sudder St.; 033/2252-1510) is an atmospheric place for sundowners and early-evening drinks. The Park ( 033/2249-9000; www.theparkhotels.com) is the place to hang out after hours—Someplace Else rocks all night long with live bands belting out alternative rock, salsa, blues and jazz every night of the week. Together with vibrantly hued Tantra (strictly for couples and room guests; Rs 500 on weekends per couple), which has the largest dance floor in the city, it attracts the city’s hippest crowd. The ’60s-styled and -themed cocktail bar Roxie’s (entry is free if staying at The Park hotel or on recommendation by an existing guest) is worth trying to get an invite to, if not for the decor (rough and classy with exposed red bricks), then definitely for the music that darts between the ’50s, ’60s, and ’70s, enjoyed best with what the bar prides itself on—“mood cocktails.” If this wasn’t already enough, The Park also has Aqua, a poolside alfresco lounge. Wooden loungers and deck beds, suspended timber deck, hot tub, and cool pool—Aqua has it all. Known earlier as Cinnamon, the Marrakesh Lounge (24 Park St.; 033/2227-4974) and Virgose, at the Hotel Hindustan International (235/1ACJ Bose Rd.; 033/2283-0505;www.hhihotels.com), are also popular, especially with those who want to stray far from the bustling crowds that throng in and around The Park.

Live Performance

Theater, music, dance, and poetry recitals all thrive here. Check out the listings in the “Bulletin Board” section of The Times of India. Upscale hotels also carry the useful monthly booklets City Info and Cal Calling. Rabindra Sadan concert hall (A.J.C. Bose Rd. and Cathedral Rd.; 033/2223-9936 or -9917) hosts regular theater and musical events, as well as dance-drama performances and local-flavored Bengali poetry evenings. Cultural events also take place at the Academy of Fine Arts (2 Cathedral Rd.; 033/2223-4302). The British Council (5 Shakespeare Sarani; 033/2242-5478;www.britishcouncil.org) often offers plays and performances in English. Bengali and English dramas are performed at Kala Mandir (48 Shakespeare Sarani; 033/2287-9086). For musical programs, contact Sisir Mancha (1/1 A.J.C. Bose Rd.; 033/2223-5317). Indo-German productions are occasionally held at Max Mueller Bhavan (8 Pramathesh Barua Sarani; 033/2486-6398; www.goethe.de).

Cinema, Galleries & Exhibitions

Considered the art capital of India, Kolkata hosts a huge number of