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which, unfortunately, also reveals Puri’s unchecked development. Alternatively, try Toshali Sands, en route to Konark ( 06752/25-0571 through -0574; www.toshalisands.com; doubles from Rs 4,500). Though it’s never going to win any design awards, this is the closest acceptable accommodations to the Sun Temple. A beach lies nearby, and the restaurant’s not bad. “Villa” units are the best choices; they feature small sitting rooms, porches, shared kitchenettes, and big bathrooms with tubs. In Puri itself, the one reviewed below is the only one actually located on the beach itself while all the others are either away or across the road. Of these, The Hans Coco Palms ( 06752/230-038; www.hanshotels.com) is the best pick with the usual facilities at hand, making it convenient, functional but entirely devoid of the “ah” factor.

Mayfair Beach Resort This is the best place to stay in the vicinity of the Sun Temple by a long shot, popular with middle-class Indian families who come to strut their stuff on the wide expanse of beach, a short walk from the resort. However, service can be pretty surly. Disinterested staff members wear bright Hawaiian shirts, and the entrance and lobby areas are equally colorful, playing off the Jagannath Temple theme. The rough-hewn red-brick resort makes the most of its limited space, its gardens profuse with lovely trees, potted plants, and stone statues of various deities. Unless you can afford the presidential suite, book a garden cottage; it has a small sitting area, a semiprivate veranda, and a small shower room. Beyond the crow-infested pool, a nice stretch of beach is watched by the resort’s lifeguards, although hawkers still ply their trades. If the early checkout doesn’t suit you, the management should be able to help.

Chakratirtha Rd., Puri 752 002. 06752/22-7800 through -7809. Fax 06752/22-4242. www.mayfairhotels.com. 34 units. Rs 6,000 deluxe room/cottage; Rs 9,000 premier suite. Rs 1,000 extra person. Ask about discounts. AE, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; 2 bars; airport transfers (Rs 2,500); currency exchange; doctor-on-call; indoor games; health club with steam and Jacuzzi; outdoor pool; pool table; room service; table tennis. In room: A/C, TV, minibar, Wi-Fi (Rs 331/hr., Rs 899/day).

Where to Dine

Besides Mayfair’s Aquarium & Veranda ( 06752/22-7800; www.mayfairhotels.com), where you can sample Orissan seafood specialties (chingudi tarkari, prawns prepared in a traditional Orissan gravy, is delicious), you can dine at Wild Grass (V.I.P. Rd.; 06752/22-9293; daily 11am–11pm), a self-consciously eco-friendly open-air restaurant set in a lush garden with stone and slate pathways and tables arranged in various nooks at different levels. Come for the delightful ambience, but don’t expect the most spectacular food or service. One of the highlights here is an Orissan thali, but it must be ordered at least 2 hours in advance (well worth it). Grilled brinjal (eggplant, known as baigan poda) is another favorite; or try tandoori prawns, nargisi fish kebab, or prawn malai curry. For dessert, try the local cheesecake, chhena poda. Restaurant Peace is an utterly laid-back cafe-style eatery with plastic chairs under thatched roofing; it opens early and serves the best bowl of muesli in India. A genuinely huge portion of fresh fruit, mixed nuts, curd, and honey is a perfect way to start the day (C.T. Rd.; 06752/22-6642; no credit cards; daily 7am–11pm).

Tribal Tours in Orissa

Venturing into Orissa’s tribal heartland is a true off-the-beaten-track adventure, allowing you to meet people with social, cultural, and agricultural practices that have remained unchanged for centuries. Many of Orissa’s tribal people are still hunter-gatherers, and are physically distinct from any other ethnic group on the subcontinent. Opportunities for travelers to interact with members of these unique societies are generally limited to weekly markets held at various tribal centers. Visitors with an especially strong interest in anthropology can arrange to spend a night or two in a traditional village, but expect plenty