India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [606]
If daily walks are what you’re looking for, then Kurseong (an hour below Darjeeling) offers some nice hikes. The town is ramshackle but fortunately the best place to stay is tucked away from it. Choc-a-bloc with quirky antiques, wooden floors, frayed rugs, inexplicable teddy bears, a few dusty corners and a lot of atmosphere what with a Volkswagen perched on the awning, Cochrane Place ( 99-3203-5660;www.imperialchai.com) is great to stay at but not for more than 2 days because the food is below average and given that the restaurant is the best the town has, you should be on your way pretty soon—walk a lot, stick to the momos and enjoy our favorite Batasia suite which comes with an attic or take a pick from the deluxe rooms (Rs 4,380–Rs 5,870; all meals included). Finally, if you want to be assured of absolute peace and quiet, head for the nearby hill station of Kalimpong.
Dekeling Hotel Some of the cedar-paneled guest rooms at this charming hotel (best choice for tight budgets) have the best views in town. Spotlessly clean and simple, this is the place to go for Tibetan hospitality (run by the wonderfully warm Norbu and Sangay Dekeva) rather than Raj-style sophistication. An old iron chimney heater keeps the lounge/library (stone tile floors, Tibetan sofas, thangkas, Tibetan paintings) cozy and warm; it’s a wonderful place to kick back with a book, watched by the family dog, Doma. Guest rooms are basic, and although the bathrooms are a little small (with shower only), they’re immaculately clean. On cold nights, a hot-water bottle is usually tucked into your bed. On the attic floor, room no. 3 has a 180-degree view that takes in Darjeeling town and Mount Kachenchunga in all its snowcapped magnificence. For security reasons, the hotel, located high above Dekevas Restaurant, is locked up at 11pm; inform the management by 9pm if you expect to be late.
51 Gandhi Rd., Darjeeling 734 101. 0354/225-3298 or -4159. Fax 0354/225-3298. www.dekeling.com. 22 units. Rs 1,000 back-facing double; Rs 1,250 standard and attic double; Rs 1,600 deluxe double. Rs 250 extra bed. Discounts of up to 50% off season (July 1–Sept 14 and Jan 15–Mar 14). AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; library; room service; Wi-Fi (Rs 60/hr.). In room: TV, electric heater on request, hot water.
Dekeling Resort This little guesthouse (resort is an ill-chosen descriptor) is the best value-for-money deal in town. A stiff, athletic climb leads you to “Hawke’s Nest,” the colonial bungalow with a commanding location high above the town, now redubbed Dekeling Resort. Prayer flags flutter around this 120-year-old green-roofed, bay-windowed, two-leveled, all-suite cottage offering simple comfort, effortless charm, and complete privacy. There’s a small, one-table dining room where breakfasts and home-cooked meals are served; or you can be served in bed, which the obliging staff of two will arrange. Ask for a double bed in an upstairs room; accommodations there are huge and charming, with wood floors, carved antique dressers, Tibetan rugs, pale floral fabrics, and lovely fireplaces. Bathrooms have large drench showers and plenty of natural light. This is a true haven if you don’t mind the 20-minute walk to The Mall.
2 A.J.C. Bose Rd., Darjeeling 734 101. 0354/225-3092 or -3347. Fax 0354/225-3298. www.dekeling.com. 4 units (with showers). Rs 2,900 double without meals; Rs 4,350 double with meals. Up to 40% discount off season. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Dining room; library; lounge; room service. In room: TV, fireplace.
The Glenburn Tea Estate Homestays are aplenty