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where houses and concrete blocks spill down the hillside; below is the Ranipul River. With only 29,000 inhabitants, it’s relatively laid-back and generally free from the malaise that stalks India’s many overpopulated towns and cities. For visitors, the most noble of Gangtok’s charms is its proximity to marvelous mountain vistas; the town itself is threatened by unchecked construction. A base for visitors who come to organize treks or wind down after a high-altitude experience, it’s pleasant to roam around but certainly not packed with attractions. The town’s most significant drawing card is the Namgyal Institute of Tibetology (admission Rs 10; Mon–Sat 10am–4pm), which houses a collection of Tibetan, Sanskrit, and Lepcha manuscripts, as well as statues, Buddhist icons, masks, scrolls, musical instruments, jewelry, incense burners, and beautiful thangkas (painted or embroidered tapestry wall hangings).

Nearby, Do-Drul Chorten is a fine example of a whitewashed Buddhist stupa, encircled by prayer wheels. Enchey Monastery is a Tibetan Buddhist lamasery worth visiting, and the Flower Exhibition Centre (Rs 5 adults, Rs 5 camera), near White Hall, attracts orchid buffs. In the manner of traditional hill kingdom forts and castles, Sikkim’s royalty once resided within the yellow tin-roofed palace in the uppermost reaches of the town. From here, the Chogyal and his family enjoyed the best views in Gangtok. Sadly, the Chogyal palace is off-limits to visitors. When the British turned up, they installed their very own “White Hall” alongside the palace and, despite initial bickering, soon got round to several decades of contented socializing. A good morning excursion (8am–noon) is to the stunning high-altitude Changu Lake . This is barely 18km (11 miles) from the Indo-Chinese border post Nathu-La, which has only recently been opened up for trade. It is extremely cold here, even in the summer, so come prepared. Permits are a must for all travelers, and the 90-minute return journey will cost Rs 650 per person in a shared taxi.

Rumtek Monastery The region’s top attraction lies 24km (15 miles) from Gangtok. Rigpe Dorjee, the “supreme head” of one of Tibetan Buddhism’s four major sects—the Kagyu, or “Black Hat” order—revived it in 1959 after the Chinese invaded Tibet. Regarded as the richest Buddhist monastic center in India, Rumtek houses some of the world’s rarest and most unique religious artifacts; its design is said to replicate that of the original Kagyu headquarters in Tibet. Try to get here during prayer times, when the red-carpeted benches are occupied by the Vajra chant and disciplinary master, who leads the chanting of prayers. The venerated part of the complex is the Golden Stupa, a 4m-high (13-ft.) chorten in which the mortal remains of the 16th Gyalwa Karmapa (founder of the Black Hat order; see box below) are enshrined. Gold-plated and embedded with jewels, turquoise, and coral, the stupa is kept in a locked shrine room, which must be specially unlocked for visitors. Ask a monk to help you track down the keeper of the key. (Note: If you come in Feb, you will be able to witness the fascinating annual mask dance and other ceremonies that take place in all the monasteries in the region, all celebrating the Tibetan New Year.) For more information, go to www.rumtek.org.

Where to Stay & Dine

If you’re traveling on a budget, Mintokling Guest House ( 03592/20-4226;www.mintokling.com; doubles Rs 1,500–Rs 1,800; all credit cards except AE) is a Sikkimese home with fairly spacious, clean guest rooms; our favorite is no. 304. The owner is a fantastic source of information on Sikkimese history, especially if you’re interested in the political lowdown; his mother was the niece of the last king of Sikkim.

Sikkim’s smartest hotel, Nor-Khill (see below), also hosts one of the better restaurants, Shangri-La ( 03592/20-5637). Splurge on an all-inclusive full-course Sikkimese meal, which you will have to order beforehand. Find out if the stir-fried fiddlehead ferns or the popular sisnu (a dish made from stinging nettle) are available, and