• Choose a category
• All
• Classic-Fiction

By Root 1958 0

you can see Tashiding Monastery , one of the most idyllic, peaceful, and sublime monasteries in India. Hire a jeep from Pelling to get here (Rs 1,400 round-trip). A mere glance at Tashiding’s Thongwa Rangdol, Sikkim’s most venerated chorten, will (if Buddhist legends are to be believed) absolve you of all your sins. Also of special significance is the bhumpa, a copper vase that contains the holy water used each year during the Bhumchu festival, when a sacred ritual reveals Sikkim’s fate for the upcoming year. It’s a somewhat stiff 50-minute hike in the opposite direction to hilltop Sanga Choling Monastery—but it’s worth it, for the most panoramic views around. Constructed in 1697, this is believed to be the second-oldest Buddhist monastery in Sikkim. Go when morning or evening prayers are held. For more information on the region, call the Tourism Information Office at 94-3463-0876. There is, however, one more optional stopover for those with more time to explore—2 hours south of Pelling is the small town of Rinchenpong—worth including just so you can overnight at Yangsum Farm (reviewed below).

Where to Stay & Dine

With basics like electricity and water in short supply, don’t expect luxury in Pelling. The town is spilling over with tour and travel agents, many of whom are quite suspect in their dealings—single women travelers would do well to be cautious and use only accredited travel agents, based preferably in Gangtok. Aside from Norbu, the best place to stay is newly opened The Mount Pandim, set atop a hill, with the most terrific views of the mighty Kanchenjunga, and a 10-minute amble distance from the Pemayangtse Monastery (and 30 min. from the Rabdentse Ruins). The hotel had only just opened at press time, but guest rooms and facilities are in keeping with the Elgin chain of hotels: comfortable and positively luxurious when compared with your other options. Try to reserve deluxe room no. 203 ( 03595/25-0756 or -0273; www.elginhotels.com; doubles Rs 5,100, include all meals). If you’re keen on the homestay experience, your best bet is the delightful Yangsum, a working farm reviewed below, near the village of Rinchenpong. If you want to be based in Pelling itself (and you’re watching your rupees), a good budget option is Hotel Phamrong (Upper Pelling; 03595/25-8218 or -0660; www.sikkimhotelphamrong.com; doubles from Rs 1,400–Rs 2,850), which have large en-suite rooms that generally come with fantastic views. Don’t expect luxury, but the sunrises are brilliant. Pelling’s best dining is at the Norbu Ghang Resort (see below), but the restaurant at tiny Garuda guest lodge (next door to Hotel Phamrong) serves a solid selection, including Tibetan and Sikkimese specialties.

Norbu Ghang Resort Norbu Ghang (which means “Jewel on the Hilltop”) has the most tasteful accommodations in western Sikkim (the Mount Pandim has the edge with its glorious views, but it’s located outside of town, which may not suit you if you’re just here to arrange trekking). The resort is built on four levels over a 2-hectare (5-acre) stretch of flower-speckled terraced hillside. The corrugated-roof cottages are fairly decent in size. All the best rooms and cottages have views of mighty Khangchendzonga (book cottage no. 601, 801, or 804). You can also opt for the cozy Denzong suite, with its atticlike feel, where even the tiny windows are excusable. The resort also has Pelling’s best restaurant, serving traditional Sikkimese cuisine.

Pelling 737 113. 03595/25-8245, -8272, or -0566. Fax 03595/25-8271. Reservations: C.N.Ghosh 98-3048-7119.www.sikkiminfo.net/norbughang. 30 units. Rs 3,100 deluxe double; Rs 3,600 super deluxe double; Rs 4,400 Denzong Suite. Rs 1000 extra bed. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; currency exchange; doctor-on-call; Internet (on request); room service; travel assistance. In room: TV, heater.

Yangsum Farm With an idyllic location, surrounded by fields and edge-to-edge mountain ranges, Yangsum Farm is a real find. Owner-run by Thendup Tashi and Pema, this is a working farm: The resident rooster and watchdog geese ensure that