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India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [64]

By Root 1893 0
hand as part of their toilet routine. Consequently, the left hand is considered unclean, and you should only offer your right hand when greeting someone. Don’t touch a religious object with your feet or left hand. People generally use the right hand for handing over or receiving cash as the left is considered inauspicious. If you wish to put your feet up in a train or other form of public transport, take your shoes off first. If you are booked on a higher berth and don’t want to leave your expensive shoes at floor level, put them in a plastic bag and take them up to your berth with you. If you inadvertently touch/kick someone with your foot, it’s customary to extend an apology. In fact you will notice that in some parts of India, if an Indian accidentally touches you with his foot, he will immediately follow that up with a hand gesture that first lightly brushes you with the tips of the fingers and then brings that hand up towards his chest or forehead. Even if nothing is said, this constitutes an apology.

AVOIDING OFFENSE Indians love to discuss all manner of subjects, and more educated individuals will readily get into wonderfully heated debates—which may be among your most memorable moments in India. Do exercise discretion, however, when trying to understand the enigma of India’s overwhelming poverty and the caste system. Don’t harshly judge or criticize things you don’t understand fully; Indians can be quite passionate about their nation and will defend it unequivocally. Words are seldom enough to offend an Indian, but avoid strong swear words in the context of an argument or insult. And always be considerate and humble when entering a place of worship.

EATING & DRINKING When eating at someone’s home, remember that it is not unusual for the woman to cook and spend the entire evening serving. Don’t interfere with this custom, and don’t venture into the kitchen—especially if you’re a man. Foreign women will generally be treated as “honorary men” and should dine at the table unless an alternative suggestion is made. Note that the above rules apply more in orthodox homes and to a much lesser degree in modern city homes, where in fact it is polite to offer help, even if the answer is negative. Use only your right hand when eating (unless knives and forks are used), and follow the lead of your host when you’re unsure. Don’t be afraid to ask about the food, but you must be quite firm about not drinking water (unless it’s bottled) and being mindful of salads and cut fruit (see above). Consider bringing your own bottled water with you.

MIND YOUR TEMPER When confronted with bureaucracy and IST (Indian “Stretchable” Time), maintain your cool. Schedules are bound to go awry and government offices are notoriously inefficient, so there’s simply no point in losing your temper. You’d be well advised to adopt a similar attitude with wealthy and “important” Indian men who, as a matter of course, cut into line. Rather than fly into a rage, point out the lack of consideration firmly and earnestly or, better still, smile beatifically and practice a meditation technique.

PHOTOGRAPHY Photography at airports or military installations is strictly forbidden, as it is at all burning ghats (crematorium sites) in Varanasi. Note that carrying a camera to attractions throughout India will add significantly to your entry fee. In touristy areas don’t be surprised if people offer to be photographed and then demand payment.

SAYING YES EVEN WHEN THE ANSWER IS NO When you ask for directions, people will often send you in the wrong direction rather than admit they don’t know the way. Try not to ask questions that require a yes or no answer, because you will almost always only hear yes. In other words, rather than ask, “Is this the way to the Gateway of India?” try, “Can you tell me the way to the Gateway of India?” If the person seems hesitant when giving you directions, verify that you are going the right way by asking someone else a few minutes down the road.

General Resources for Green Travel

In addition to the resources for India listed above,

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