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By Root 1914 0

lie the city’s two airports and a host of upmarket hotels. The area of Andheri (East) around the international airport has become a crowded (and rather polluted) commercial and residential neighborhood. Yet many business visitors prefer to stay in this part of town if their business lies here, to avoid the stressful commute. Farther north in the suburbs is Goregaon, home to Film City, where many Bollywood movies are shot; past that is Borivali, from where Mumbai’s most popular theme park, EsselWorld, is accessible. Beyond, the city goes on (and on), with little to tempt the visitor.

VISITOR INFORMATION

For the best listings of the city’s current events and what’s hip and happening, look no further than the twice-monthly magazine Time Out, widely available. You could try the Maharashtra Tourism Development Corporation (Madame Cama Rd., Nariman Point; 022/2202-4627 or -7762; www.maharashtratourism.gov.in; Mon–Fri 10am–5:30pm and Sat 10am–3pm), or the main Government of India Tourist Office (123 Maharishi Karve Rd., Churchgate; 022/2203-3144, 022/2207-4333 or -4334; Mon–Fri 8:30am–6pm, Sat 8:30am–2pm), both of which should be able to assist with general tourist-related information. However, if you’re staying at one of the city’s better hotels, your concierge will be a better source of information on sightseeing, performances, events, and activities (although you may need to negotiate hard to get the lowdown on truly local restaurants and more offbeat attractions—our prize for the best concierge advice in the city goes to the folks at the Four Seasons). Another excellent source of information—as well as assistance with just about any kind of query, problem or emergency—is Reality Tours & Travel ( 022/2283-3872; 24-hour line 98-2082-2253; www.realitytoursandtravel.com). Krishna, one of the founders of this community-oriented tour company, knows the city inside out and is particularly astute at interpreting it for outsiders. His team will go so far as to source magazines, clothing and other essentials for you if you end up in the hospital, so can definitely also answer more mundane questions; for more information on their sightseeing and slum tours, .

Mumbai

Ambulance In case of accidents or medical emergencies, dial 102 or 1298, or call 105 for a cardiac ambulance. You can also contact Bacha’s Nursing Home (La Citadelle, New Marine Lines; 022/2203-2977 or 022/2200-0963) or Bombay Hospital (Bombay Hospital Rd., New Marine Lines; 022/2206-7676; www.bombayhospital.com). Or try Swati Ambulance ( 022/2387-1215), which has 24-hour service.

American Express The office is near the Jehangir Art Gallery at Kala Ghoda (Trade Wings Ltd., 30 K Dubash Marg, Kala Ghoda; 022/6634-4334). Hours are Monday to Saturday 10:30am to 6pm.

Area Code The area code for Mumbai is 022.

ATMs Undoubtedly the most convenient way to get local currency, ATMs are to be found throughout the city, most of them with 24-hour security guards. Your best bet for a quick transaction is to head for an ATM belonging to either HDFC, HSBC, ICICI, SBI, or Standard Chartered.

Bookstores Crossword Bookstore (Mohammedbhai Mansion, Kemps Corner, below flyover; 022/2384-2001 through -2004) has a Western ambience and Mumbai’s largest selection of books. Alternatively, stop at Shankar’s Book Stall ( 92-2411-1790), a tiny stall just outside Café Mondegar, Colaba Causeway; or at Strand Book Stall (Sir PM Rd., Fort; 022/2266-1994 or -1719), which offers books at great discounts. Inside the Taj Mahal Hotel is Nalanda ( 022/2287-1306), a good spot to shop for coffee-table books and travel-related selections.

Car Hires See “Getting Around,” below.

Consulates U.S.: Lincoln House, 78 Bhulabhai Desai Rd., Breach Candy ( 022/2363-3611 through -3618; Mon–Fri 8:30am–1pm and 1:45–5pm; closed second and last Fri of the month and on Indian and American national holidays). U.K.: Second Floor, Maker Chambers IV, 222 Jamnalal Bajaj Rd., Nariman Point ( 022/6650-2222; Mon–Thurs 8am–4pm and Fri 8am–1pm). Australia: 36 Maker Chambers VI, 220 Nariman Point ( 022/6669-2000; Mon–Fri 9am–5pm).