Iran - Andrew Burke [100]
Right at the heart of the cemetery is a shrine to Iranian pilgrims killed during the annual haj (pilgrimage to Mecca), when Saudi Arabian soldiers opened fire on a crowd during the mid-1980s. Elsewhere, the graves of ordinary people stretch on for kilometres.
A visit here is usually combined with a trip to the Holy Shrine of Imam Khomeini. Behesht-e Zahra is packed on mourning days but is eerily empty at other times.
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REY
One of the most historically important places in Tehran province is Rey. In the 11th and 12th centuries Rey was a major centre that was much larger than Tehran, but it was devastated when the Mongols swept through. These days it has been swallowed up by the urban sprawl of the capital, but retains enough history to give it a different sensibility – one best experienced by just wandering around on foot.
The main attraction is the Imamzadeh Shah-e Abdal-Azim, built for a descendant of Imam Hossein. This mausoleum has elaborate tilework, a golden dome, a pool in the courtyard, a 14th-century sarcophagus with intricate carvings, constructed from betel wood, and enough mirror tiles to make you dizzy. In the same complex is a shrine to Imam Hamzeh (brother of Imam Reza). Women need to wear a chador, which are available at the entrance.
Rey’s other attractions include the remains of the Sassanid Qal’-e Tabarak, a fortress on a nearby hill; the 12th-century Gonbad-e Toghoral, the 20m-high tomb tower of a Seljuk king in the town centre; and the Cheshmeh Ali mineral springs, with some Qajar-period carvings nearby.
Getting There & Away
Shahr-e Rey (City of Rey) station is easily reached heading south on Metro Line 1. Taxis can be hired in Rey for a negotiable IR30,000 per hour, or take a tour organised by your hotel.
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MT DAMAVAND
Shaped like Mt Fuji, Mt Damavand (5671m) is the highest mountain in the Middle East. It’s easily accessible from Tehran, although it is actually in Mazandaran province. Damavand has many mythological tales associated with it but in reality it is a dormant volcano that still belches out sulphuric fumes strong enough to kill unfortunate stray sheep. Its image is one of the most recognisable icons in Iran, appearing on the IR10,000 note, on bottles of Damarvand spring water and numerous other commercial items.
Most people who go to Damavand do so to climb the peak, and start by heading to Reyneh. The climbing season is from June to September, or May and October for experienced climbers.
Reyneh
The pretty village of Reyneh offers fine views of villages on the far side of the valley and makes a jumping-off point for local walking trails, even if you don’t want to climb the mountain. There is no hotel, but if you ask around someone will put you up in their home for about IR65,000 per person and put you in touch with a local guide.
The best place to get information about routes and guides is the Reyneh Mountain Federation Hut, on the right (northeastern) side of the main road as you drive into town.
The excellent blog at http://damavandmt.blogspot.com blog has more recent detail than we can include here because it is run by the Azad Group of Iranian mountaineers. It might have details of a new camp and jumping-off point planned for Polur, nearer to Tehran. It has maps, GPS points and links to tours.
Climbing the Mountain
This section describes the classic southern route. From a technical point of view, Damavand is basically a walk-up. Climbing so far so quickly is the most dangerous aspect of this climb. As you ascend be sure to watch out for signs of altitude sickness – dizziness, headaches, nausea and swollen fingers – which kills people here every year. Most first-timers use a guide. One Reyneh-based guide recommended by