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Mashhad Hotel (Map; 555 8255; Ferdosi St; dm/s/tw/tr/q IR20,000/43,000/59,700/81,000/92,000; shower IR5000) Possibly the only mosaferkhaneh allowing foreigners to use (five-bed) dormitories.

Masoud Guesthouse (Map; 556 6828; Mohaqqeqi St; s/tw IR40,000/56,000) Newly repainted rooms, shared squats a little whiffy. Marked ‘Heloo Welcom Youth Hostel’.

Hotel Delgoshay Salmas (Map; 554 3362; Ferdosi St; s/tw/tr from IR43,360/59,708/70,334; shower IR6000) Some rooms have washing facilities.

MIDRANGE

Morvarid Hotel (Map; 553 3336; Fajr Sq; s/tw IR116,130/160,341) This long-term favourite remains OK value though some of the freshly painted rooms smell a tad damp and their taste in art is a little garish. Decent bathrooms. Jebel speaks good English and doubles as driver-guide.

Qods Hotel (Map; 555 0898; Terminal Sq; s/tw IR130,000/200,000) Acceptable rooms with hot showers and Western loos off spanking clean but ill-lit corridors that feel soulless and slightly eerie.

Ark Hotel (Map; 555 1277; Ark St; s/tw with breakfast IR150,000/200,000) The are sheets on aging mattresses and there’s no lift. It’s named after the citadel nearby, not Noah.

Kosar Hotel (Map; 553 7691; fax 554 1570; info@kosarhotel.com; Imam Khomeini St; d IR160,000; ) Professionally upgraded historic building with well-furnished, tile-floored rooms that include satellite TV (Euronews) and fridge. Some have Western toilets and double beds. Traffic rumbles all night.

Azarbayjan Hotel (Map; 555 9051; fax 553 7477; Shari’ati St; s/d/tr IR170,000/242,000/302,000; ) A fine, central option with consistently friendly service and unpretentious but regularly renovated rooms with excellent hot showers and towels. Double-glazing reduces traffic noise.

Hotel Sina (Map; 556 6211; Fajr Sq; s/tw IR200,000/300,000; ) Calm yet central, this relatively plush midrange option has bright corridors with strip carpets over clean tiled floors. Rooms are neat and fully equipped. Enter from Felestin St. Parking is limited.

TOP END

Gostaresh Hotel (Map; 334 5021; fax 334 6778; Abaresan Crossing; s/tw/tr/ste US$54/67/87/108; ) ‘Standard’ rooms are stylishly redesigned semi-suites with breast-height dividing walls between the bed and a slightly sparse sitting area. Most have kitchenette. Although several kilometres from the bazaar, the location is handy for public transport to both Valiasr and the centre.

Hotel Elgoli (Tabriz Pars; Map; 380 7820; fax 380 8555; www.parshotels.com; Elgoli Park; s/d/ste US$73/106/202; ) Three convex walls of gleaming blue glass overlook the city’s favourite park, 8km from the centre. It has everything you’d expect from a top business hotel except for alcohol in the minibar beers. The atrium is airy and there’s a revolving restaurant on top.

The new, five-star Shahriyar Hotel (Map; www.shahryarinternationalhotel.com; Elgoli Blvd; s/d from US$120/150) opened shortly after we had finished our research.

Eating

On winter evenings, labu (beets) are sold roasted or boiled from carts along Imam Khomeini St. Or try baghla (boiled broad beans) eaten as a snack with vinegar and paprika at open-air cafés around Elgoli Park.

CENTRAL AREA

There are several decent dining options around Coffeenet Deniz and nearby Shari’ati St has good juice bars. The tourist information office folks like to show you cheap local eateries nearby including part-vegetarian Arzhentin Restaurant (open for lunch only) and the delightful little Ferdosi Restaurant, a subterranean one-room vaulted cavern that’s great for dizi (Click here) or a puff on the qalyan.

Rahnama Dairy (Map; Ferdosi St; snacks IR6500; 7am-9pm Sat-Thu, 7am-2pm Fri) This simple dairy-café serves unbeatable breakfasts of must-asal (yogurt and honey) or khame-asal (cream and honeycomb).

Restaurant Tatly ( 555 0505; Shari’ati St; pizzas IR13,000-30,000; noon-11pm) Ceilings soar to five-pointed star lamps in this renovated older building. Pizzas are typically Iranian but the ash (thick vegetable