Iran - Andrew Burke [120]
Beyond Kandovan, smooth steep foothills mask a full view of Mt Sahand whose hidden volcanic summit rises to 3707m. David Rohl’s book Legend suggests that Sahand was the Bible’s ‘Mountain of God’. If true that would place Kandovan slap bang in the original Garden of Eden. But today it’s honey rather than apples that tempt a tasting.
Osku
0412 / pop 24,000
En route to Kandovan you’ll pass through Osku, famous for silk-weaving, walnuts and tight-fisted residents. In the book In Xanadu, William Dalrymple finally achieved his quest for an Iranian silk farm here. But while silk kalagechi scarves hang to dry from roof-lines above Osku’s weaving workshops and are hand-stamped at the town’s yellow-brick Handicraft Cooperative ( 322 0511; Farmandari St), today the raw silk is produced at Siyah Rud (Click here).
Osku has two old brick mosques and an ancient, chinar (giant plane tree) that divides the narrow lane leading towards Kandovan. That road weaves through walnut groves to Ispanjan village, where two mosques share three fine minarets. The road then continues over arid rolling hills that turn attractively grassy in spring, bypassing the silk-spinning village of Khanemu. Donkey traffic is as common as cars, men wear crumpled papakh and women appear to be wrapped in curtains.
SLEEPING & EATING
In Kandovan, several of the discordantly ordinary homes and shops at the village base offer very basic rooms to rent (mostly May to September only). You’ll usually get an unfurnished room with carpeted floor, so consider bringing a sleeping bag. All charge IR40,000 per room but standards vary. Kafe Gazakhuri Daiya is easiest to find (across the bridge from the Dairyman four-table shop-restaurant), but like most it has outside toilets and no real shower. Homestay Jamshid ( 3230016; r IR40,000) has slightly tattier rooms, but offers hot-water shower and indoor squat toilet.
Kandovan Laleh Rock Hotel ( 323 0191; fax 323 0190; tw/tr/ste US$300/370/400) Like traditional Kandovan homes, the Laleh’s 10 remarkable rooms have been carved out of ‘fairy chimney’ rock knolls. But inside they are luxurious affairs with stylish lighting, oriental-style futon-beds, underfloor heating and (in many) deep-stepped Jacuzzis as well as fully equipped bathrooms.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Minibuses from central Tabriz run regularly to Osku (IR2500, 50 minutes) till around 6pm. From Osku to Kandovan (25km) taxis cost IR40,000 return plus IR15,000 per hour waiting. Minibuses are extremely rare. Direct car-tours from Tabriz (Click here) to Kandovan cost from around IR100,000 return.
Tabriz to Jolfa
SÖHRÜUL CHURCH
Although smaller and less significant than Qareh Kalisa (Click here) the intriguing Söhrüul Church (Söhrül Kalisa) has a unique star-hexagonal bell tower and a picturesque setting on a steep little hillock just above mud-walled Söhrül village. First built in the 6th century AD, the current brick structure is the result of a Franco-Russian rebuild in 1840, very heavily restored in 2006. Söhrül is 25km northwest of Tabriz airport. Turn off the main Tabriz–Sufiyan road beside Golzar Restaurant following the sign for Zabarlu. The last 12km is unasphalted.
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PAYAM
An attractive section of the busy Marand highway 50km northwest of Tabriz passes right beside the beautiful Abbasi Caravanserai, slated for conversion to an inn. About 3.5km beyond is the turn-off for Payam (Yam) ski area.
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MARAND
0491 / pop 129,000
Traditionally believed to be the burial place of Noah’s mother, Marand is mostly useful as a connection point for reaching Jolfa. Transport from Tabriz and Khoy arrives at the main terminal, 1km off the southern ring road. You can continue north from there using minibuses to Hadiyshahr. But direct Jolfa savaris use Istgah Jolfa, a tiny unmarked side street, 700m north of the city centre, around 3km