Iran - Andrew Burke [127]
Numerous shops facing the Safi-od-Din Mausoleum sell helva siyah (black halva or ‘pest’), a rich local speciality vaguely reminiscent of Christmas pudding. It costs around IR30,000 per kilogram but a small plateful sprinkled with coconut, grated nuts and cinnamon is plenty (IR1000). Ardabil’s famous honey is sold throughout the city.
Getting There & Away
Flights to Tehran (IR315,000) leave three times daily with Iran Air ( 223 8600) and daily with Iran Aseman. Helpful Homai Travel ( 223 3233; Sa’at-Noh Sq; 8.30am-7.30pm Sat-Thu, 9am-1pm Fri) sells air tickets and train tickets ex-Tabriz.
BUS, MINIBUS & SAVARI
From the main terminal (Moqaddas-e-Ardabili St), Tehran buses (IR38,000 to IR60,000, 10 hours) leave hourly (7am to 11pm) via Astara (IR6000 to IR10,000, two hours), Rasht (IR17,000 to IR25,000, five hours) and Qazvin (IR38,000 to IR60,000, eight hours). Buses run to Tabriz (IR17,000 to IR25,000, four hours) via Sarab hourly till 3.30pm.
For Ahar make savari hops via Meshgin Shahr. Either start from Istgah Meshgin ( 333 1855; RTA Sabalan, Beheshti St), a hidden yard 200m northwest of Shohoda St, or risk casual drivers from Moghan Sq.
From different points near Bahonar Sq savaris run to Tabriz (IR50,000) and Sara’eyn (IR5000).
Savaris to Astara (back/front/whole car IR13,000/15,000/60,000, 1½ hours) use Istgah Astara ( 882 0876; Jam’e-Jam St), a small yard with a green sign 100m northeast of Jahad Sq.
Khal Khal savaris (IR12,000, 1½ hours) and rare buses depart from huge Isar Sq, 3km southeast of Besat Sq.
Getting Around
The airport is 1km off the Astara road, 11km northeast of Ardabil (IR25,000 by taxi). From Imam Khomeini Sq shuttle taxis run to Bahonar Sq (for Sara’eyn minibuses) and to Besat Sq. Khalkhoran minibuses start near Imam Hossein Sq.
Return to beginning of chapter
AROUND ARDABIL
Sara’eyn
0452 / pop 12,000
On otherwise-lonely plains sloping gently towards mighty Mt Sabalan (4811m) sits this brash little hot-springs resort. Its mineral waters are said to cure anything from baldness to syphilis, and tacky souvenir stores overflow with Iranian miracle seekers in summer, making for great people-watching opportunities. Bathing in outdoor hot pools like Gavmish-Goli (admission IR6000; women 6am-1pm, men 2pm-late) is amusing in winter snow.
The modest Alvares chair-lift (telecabine; 222 0222; per ride IR15,000), 21km from Sara’eyn, only operates in the ski season. But in summer Alvares still makes a great, accessible starting point for higher altitude hikes. Scenery is bracing and en route you’ll probably pass Shahsevan nomads (see boxed text, right), whose flocks graze close to Sara’eyn in June, their womenfolk often dressed in pink dresses and patterned white shawls.
SLEEPING
Hotels sprout like mushrooms in Sara’eyn but many are jerry-built and decay quickly. Cheaper rooms are available above shops. Touts around the central Hydrotherapy Centre can find you a place in virtually any price range. Bargains are possible off-season.
Motel Kaveh ( 222 2447; Valiasr St 671; q IR100,000; ) Arched windows and a two-tiered terrace give the Kaveh a vaguely colonial look. Neat rooms with kitchen, shower and Western loo are excellent-value year round. It’s very central in an overgrown garden (marked ‘096’). Owners speak German and English.
Hotel Amin ( 222 4290; d low/high season IR290,000/500,000) At the north edge of town, north-facing rooms have an unparalleled view towards Mt Sabalan. However, while the semi-smart tower is almost new, it’s already showing signs of wear.
Laleh International ( 222 2750; s/d/ste with breakfast US$80/122/256; ) This long-established resort hotel has neat, motel-style rooms and English-speaking staff who can arrange mountain guides for climbing the mighty Mt Sabalan.
EATING
A local speciality served from steaming