Iran - Andrew Burke [133]
For Bandar-e Anzali, savaris pick up on a lane off Sa’di St behind the Armenian church.
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CUT THE CAVIAR – GILAN CUISINE
The Caspian Sea produces 95% of the world’s caviar. But don’t count on seeing any. Iran’s caviar is virtually all for export. In fact, Gilan’s cuisine largely ignores the sea and focuses on the local wealth of fruit, nuts, olives and vegetables. Typical dishes are packed with garlic and turmeric, rather shocking for the sensitive taste buds of central Iranian tourists. Sirabi is essentially fried garlic leaves with egg, shami Rashti are deep-fried lentil-and-meat patties, baghilah qotoq are dill-and-garlic-flavoured broad beans, while anarbij (meatballs in walnut and pomegranate sauce) is a variant of fesenjun. Easier to find than any of the above is mirza ghasemi, a vegetarian marvel of mashed aubergine, squash, garlic and egg. Although often listed as a starter it makes a delicious meal of its own when served with rice.
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Informal Lahijan savaris pick up on Shari’ati St, but the official Lahijan terminal is 500m east of Janbazan Sq hidden opposite a Saipa showroom. Durations will vary widely according to traffic conditions, but prices for minibuses/savaris are Lahijan IR2000/6000, Ramsar IR6000/25,000 and Chalus IR11,500/35,000.
For Fuman, and thence Masuleh, savaris/minibuses (IR1500/5000) depart from Yakhsazi Sq (Shohaday Gomnam Sq).
Getting Around
Many shuttle-taxi routes run the length of Imam Khomeini Blvd from Shohada Sq, or along Shohada St to the Lahijan terminal. Northbound, many shuttle taxis go up Sa’di St via Shahid Ansari Sq, where some swing left up to Golsar, others continuing to Valiasr Sq (Istgah Anzali). These return southbound down Takhti St.
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AROUND RASHT
Bandar-e Anzali
0181 / pop 113,000
Now Iran’s foremost Caspian port city, Bandar-e Anzali’s development began in the late 19th century when Enzeli village was selected as a harbour for the Russian Caspian & Mercury Mail-Steamship Company. In 1918 this ‘infamous malarial hellhole of barely 4000 souls’ was the launching pad for ‘Dunsterforce’, Britain’s secret WWI army that launched a futile attempt to prevent Baku’s Azerbaijani oilfields from falling to the Turks.
Amid modern Anzali’s 10km-long sprawl, just two short, ragged blocks around central Imam Khomeini Sq retain any of the once-beautiful Russian house façades. A block east then north of Khomeini Sq is a leafy waterside promenade lined with teahouses. From here it’s possible to rent scarily fast speedboats (around IR400,000 per hour) to go bird-watching amid the reeds and waterlilies (nenufar) of the world’s largest fresh(ish), water lagoon. The historic lighthouse, converted into a clocktower, looks good when floodlit at night.
About 900m south of Khomeini Sq, don’t miss the Martial Museum (Kakh Moze; 421 0067; admission Iranian/foreigner IR3000/10,000; 8am-12.30pm & 3-6pm). It exhibits guns, model ships and the conjectured uniform of a Persepolis-era soldier (looking more like the costume for a hippy toga party). But the real fascination is the splendid setting, a classically styled mansion-palace with sweeping stairways that was once Reza Shah’s Caspian getaway. The surrounding garden, full of armoured vehicles, backs onto the harbour area.
Bandar-e Anzali’s most appealing hotel, the Ancient Golsang ( 424 5256; Imam Khomeini Sq; s/tw/tr IR80,000/150,000/200,000), is a 1912 brick building in the form of stepped triangle. Paint is chipping off the antique wooden-framed windows, but rooms are clean and have bathrooms. Staff are friendly if a little eccentric and the restaurant serves a heavenly mirza ghasemi (opposite).
Direct savaris (IR5000, 30 minutes) link Imam Khomeini Sq with central Rasht (Sa’di St or Shahrdari Sq). Don’t bother with inconvenient minibuses.
Fuman
0132 / pop 36,000
Gilan’s main attractions are wooded hinterland villages accessed via Fuman. Formerly known as Dar-al-Emareh, and once capital of Gilan,