Iran - Andrew Burke [148]
ZENDAN-E SOLEIMAN
This dramatic 97m conical peak dominates the valley landscape for miles around. Though it’s now bare of all construction, the cone was once enclosed by fortified walls and topped by a religious sanctuary that archaeologists suggest dated back to 900 BC. Zendan-e Soleiman means Solomon’s Prison, though anyone jailed within the central crater wouldn’t have lasted long given the noxious sulphurous fumes. Peering gingerly into its dizzying void can be suffocating enough. Assuming you’re reasonably fit, climbing to the crater’s edge should take under 15 minutes. The path is muddy but obvious, zig-zagging up from the Takab road about 4km south of the main Takht-e Soleiman ruins.
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THRONE OF SOLEIMAN – MAKE A DAY OF IT
A great way to visit Takht-e Soleiman (Click here) is by chartering a taxi for a day from Zanjan (around IR350,000, full day with stops) travelling on afterwards via Takab to be dropped off in Bijar. The route passes some fabulously timeless villages, particularly once you’ve passed the un-exotic mining town of Dandy. Shikhlar, 20km from Dandy is dramatically backed by the pyramidal peak of Tozludagh (Dusty Mountain). Qaravolkhana, 20km further (10km before Takht-e Soleiman), has particularly picturesque mud-block homes rising between spindly trees and a lurid, metallic-green igloo-shaped mini-shrine at its southern end. Bucolic meadowland behind offers great hikes and the possible ascent of Mt Belqeis, topped by fragmentary ruins of a Sassanid line-of-sight fortress.
If you take the daily Zanjan–Dandy minibus (around 9am), use Dandy’s taxi stand ( 0242 352 2566) to charter a ride for the last 50km to Takht-e Soleiman.
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GETTING THERE & AWAY
Unless you charter a ride from Zanjan or Dandy, the approach is from Takab. From a small taxi stand an the western edge of Takab town taxis ask IR50,000 return including enough time to quickly run around the site and to dash up Zendan-e Soleiman. Add IR15,000 per hour if you hang around. Savaris and minibuses only run to Nosratabad once or twice a day and leave you 2km short of Takht-e Soleiman. Traffic is often very thin making hitch-hiking awkward.
Takab
0482 / pop 50,000
This hilly market town is of interest only as the closest access point for Takht-e Soleiman. Bank Saderat at the crossroads of Imam and Enqelab Sts approximately marks its commercial centre. About 100m southeast of that junction opposite Bank Melli, the extremely basic, showerless Mehmunpazir Takht-e-Jamshid ( 522 2119; Imam St; tw IR60,000) is signed ‘Pensiun’. Rooms have recently been repainted but conditions remain far from inviting. The owner knows the odd word of English. A kilometre uphill from the Bank Saderat crossroads, passing close to Coffeenet Yahoo ( 523 2288; Pasdaran St; per hr IR7000; 10am-8pm) en route, is the comparatively upmarket Rangi Hotel ( 522 3179; fax 522 4650; Upper Enqelab St; s/tw/tr/q with breakfast US$25/32/40/45). Since a major re-fit and expansion in 2007, the top-floor rooms are now the most comfortable. The restaurant has improved of late and manager Ayub speaks good English.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Buses and minibuses use a new terminal in the northeast corner of town. Bijar and Shahin Dezh minibuses depart roughly hourly until 1pm. The 5am bus to Zanjan (IR12,000) drives via Bijar.
Savaris to Bijar (IR15,000, one hour) leave from outside Taavoni 16 ( 522 2136; Imam St) just across the bridge from Mehmunpazir Takht-e-Jamshid.
The taxi stand for Takht-e Soleiman is near Galem Sq, 600m further west along Imam St.
For Miyando’ab (and thence Maraqeh or Orumiyeh) start by taking a savari from the western edge of town to Shahin Dezh (IR15,000, 1¼ hours), cross that town by taxi (IR2000, 3km) then continue by savari (IR10,000) or minibus (IR3000).
Around Takab
KARAFTU CAVES
These intriguing four-storey cliff-caves (admission IR4000) are normally