Iran - Andrew Burke [167]
Venon Hotel ( 323 4076; Enqelab St; s/tw/tr/q IR150,000/360,000/480,000/580,000) Above an expansive restaurant, sparklingly clean, new rooms have tiled floors, displays of plastic flowers and curtained-off shower booths. Toilets are shared. It’s bearable value for single travellers but otherwise overpriced.
Hotel Karon ( 220 5408; Shari’ati St; s/tw/tr with breakfast US$20/30/37; ) A major makeover has given the Karon a swish new foyer, lift and cosmetically improved rooms. The wood-effect vinyl floors could use more frequent washing and water supply remains dodgy, but staff are obliging and Hassan speaks excellent English.
Shaqayeq Hotel ( 420 3390; Shaqayeq Sq; s/tw US$20/30) Seriously tatty last resort.
Shahrdari Inn ( 220 2227; Shari’ati Park; s/tw US$45/60; ) Clad in multicoloured marble behind the trees of the park, attractive rooms in cream and pastel-blue have bay windows with sitting areas. A few have castle views (eg room 127). Bathrooms are passable if less polished. Some staff speak English.
ITTIC Tourist Inn ( 322 5672; Jamejam St; bungalow IR310,000; ) Semi-detached bungalow units with crazy-paving walls are peacefully perched above the popular Kyo boating lake. They are fully renovated with good bathrooms, wooden floors and velveteen bedspreads.
Eating
Cheap but unexciting kababis bracket Mehmanpazir Iran with nicer versions along Motahhari St. Fancier restaurants are often serenaded by caged birds rather than CDs. A Lorestan speciality is chelo-gusht: most of a boiled sheep lurking in a mound of rice.
Moka ( 221 9760; Motahhari St; coffee IR5000-12,000; 9am-1pm & 4pm-midnight) Enjoy real espressos (IR10,000) and amusingly creative sundaes in what looks like a sauna-room tucked behind a party supply shop. It’s nicer than it sounds!
Shem Shad Nemune ( 220 5235; mains IR21,000-35,000; 8am-3pm & 6-10pm) Almost next door to Yalda, the fried trout (IR26,000) is good but mind those bones.
Yalda ( 220 5128; Taleqani St; meals IR27,000-50,000; noon-3pm & 6-10pm) Moulded ceilings, pastel-toned wall paintings and a gently upmarket feel make this a congenial place to taste chelo-gusht (IR40,000). Opt for baqelipulau (herb pilaf) when selecting the type of rice. Mast (yogurt) sets off the flavours perfectly.
Pizza Park ( 220 5888; off Motahhari St; pizzas IR21,000-26,000; 9am-11pm) Across a small triangle of park from Moka this is Khorramabad’s nicest central pizzeria.
Castle Teahouse (Falak-ol-Aflak; tea IR2500-5000; 8am-6pm, 8am-8pm summer) This vaulted stone chamber has the obligatory carpeted bed-seats and serves lovely cinnamon tea in china pots. However, it’s a little touristy and the only food, a delicately flavoured ash (IR5000), comes disappointingly in disposable plastic bowls.
Getting There & Away
AIR
Taban Air tickets to Tehran (IR250,000, daily) are sold by helpful Soleyman Travel ( 220 0600; Muhajadine-e Islam St; 8am-1pm & 3-6pm Sat-Thu). The airport is 5km south of Imam Hossein Sq.
BUS
Long-distance buses leave from the relevant company offices found along Shari’ati St. Most have morning and evening services to Esfahan (IR40,000, eight hours) and Tehran (IR45,500, eight hours via Qom). Taavoni 15 has services to Orumiyeh (normal/Volvo IR52,000/90,000, 17 hours) at 3.30pm and to Sanandaj (IR25,000) at 1.30pm.
Taavoni 1, 7 and 15 have night buses to Ahvaz (IR40,000, six hours) via Andimeshk. However, to see the beautiful canyon-lands south of Pol-e Dokhtar you’d be better off travelling by day to Andimeshk by minibus (IR12,000, 4½ hours) or savari (IR35,000, 3¾ hours) from the small Andimeshk terminal (Baharestan Blvd), 800m south of Imam Hossein (Shaqayeq) Sq.
For Kermanshah, Taavoni 17 (Pekesaba) has a direct bus at 2pm (IR25,000, 3½ hours), but