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the glittery interior of the Tomb of Daniel (Aramgah-e Danyal), kissing the zarih grate around a green-draped grave slab. Here, however, this behaviour is particularly intriguing given that Daniel has at best tangential relevance to Islam. In fact, he’s a semi-mythical Jewish figure who supposedly served as a faithful satarap (administrator) to Darius I (522–486 BC). Dubiously recorded in the Bible as having ‘tender love with the prince of the eunuchs’ (Daniel 1, 9) he is best remembered for unenviable ordeals in lions’ dens. These exploits were already over 300 years old when recorded in the Old Testament (Daniel 6, 16-23).

Whatever the real provenance of the Daniel relics, they brought Shush an extremely lucrative flow of Jewish pilgrims from right across the Middle East. Great wealth accrued to the townsfolk living nearby, but those living across the river were missing out on the bonanza and wanted a share of the pilgrims’ shekels. A compromise was arranged whereby Daniel’s bones would spend alternate years on either riverbank, bringing prosperity to both communities. In the 12th century, travellers reported that an even more fanciful arrangement had left the holy remains dangling in a crystal coffin suspended from a metal bridge across the middle of the river.

What happened to them during the Mongol destruction is not recorded, but the present structure with its distinctive, pine-cone faceted spire, so typical of Khuzestan tombs, was only built in 1871.

The tomb complex is easy to find in the bazaar area, two blocks from the museum. It remains open late into the evening.

Sleeping & Eating

Apadana Hotel ( /fax 521 3131; s/tw US$22/33; ) Comfortable and central above a good restaurant, the Apadana’s rooms are fully equipped, though the wallpaper is starting to look a little tatty and water pressure can be rather low in the upper rooms. Staff are friendly and some speak English.

Hotel Nazr ( 522 9611; Haft-e Tir Sq; tw/q IR200,000/250,000; ) Rooms have good bathrooms and are newer than the Apadana’s, but the place lacks any atmosphere and is about 1km further from the historical sites. From the minibus yards walk 300m up Shari’ati St. Prices are hazily defined so it’s worth bargaining.

Plenty of snack bars and kababis are scattered near the museum and Haft-e Tir Sq.

Getting There & Away

Long-distance buses en route to Ahvaz can often be persuaded to drop passengers off on the main highway, 2km east of town. Shuttle taxis head from this point into the centre, but not necessarily at 2am when many southbound buses go by. Heading out of Shush, you’ll usually need to go first to Andimeshk or Ahvaz.

Minibuses to Ahvaz depart frequently from Khomeini Blvd, 800m northeast of the archaeological site. For Andimeshk (IR2250, 38km) and Dezful they use small, separate yards across the road. The Apadana Hotel can arrange sensibly priced agency taxis for Choqa Zanbil (IR90,000 return) and Shushtar.

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CHOQA ZANBIL & HAFT TAPPEH

Haft Tappeh

Muddy Elamite-era mounds pimple this otherwise-flat oasis area. Several are thought to have been small ziggurats dating from around 1400 BC. None are mind-blowingly exciting, but recent archaeological work has rendered them a little more interesting. Beside the site, a Unesco-sponsored museum (admission IR2000; 8am-5pm Sat-Thu) is beautifully set amid bougainvillaea and soaring palms. It displays archaeological finds including a curious black sarcophagus. Photo-rich explanations detail the excavation, restoration and partial reconstruction of Choqa Zanbil (25km away).

The Haft Tappeh site is 3km off the Ahvaz–Andimeshk highway. Beyond the museum, after crossing the train tracks there’s a 1km unpaved short cut south to the Choqa Zanbil road.

Choqa Zanbil

One of Iran’s Unesco World Heritage sites, Choqa Zanbil’s magnificent brick ziggurat (admission IR5000; 7am-6pm, guarded 24hr) is the best surviving example of Elamite architecture anywhere. Even if you’re not a fan of ancient ruins, the great bulk and splendid semi-desert isolation of Choqa Zanbil can’t