Iran - Andrew Burke [183]
Mosaferkhaneh-ye Gochariyan ( 444 5495; Abazar St; s/d IR40,000/80,000) This bare-bones mosaferkhaneh has small, Spartan rooms with rock-hard beds. The share bathrooms could be cleaner and no English is spoken, but it’s cheap.
Golestan Inn ( 444 6793; Motahhari Sq; s/d IR100,000/150,000) The friendly owners don’t speak much English, but the location and small, primitive, but clean, rooms keep it popular with backpackers, despite the typically hard beds and shared bathrooms. Some rooms have vaulted ceilings and windows looking down on the bazaar.
Khan-e Ehsan ( /fax 444 6833, 0913 276 2561; www.kajweb.com; off Fazel-e Navaji St; ) At long last Kashan has its first traditional hotel, and it was worth the wait. The house is run by friendly Mr Sater, who aims to use money from the rooms to help fund his NGO, which promotes the arts, and is based in the house. There is a small performance space (poetry the night we stayed) and a museum, and staying here is a great way to meet young, educated Iranians. Rooms come in a variety of shapes and sizes, some with raw, arched earthen ceilings, others more modern. We were the very first guests and prices had yet to be set, but expect to pay about €7 to €10 for a dorm bed and €20 to €35 for a room. It’s easy to miss, down a small lane opposite the street leading to Agha Bozorg Mosque. All up, kheyli khub (very good)!
Sayyah Hotel ( 444 4535; www.sayyahhotel.com; Abazar St; s/tw US$27/33, r without shower US$20/27; ) Sayyah is well located and has small, green, uninspiring rooms, some of which have fine views of the old city. Service varies from friendly and engaging to disinterested, depending on who is working. Prices include breakfast.
Amir Kabir Hotel ( 530 4091-95; fax 530 4090; Amir Kabir Rd; s/tw US$35/53; ) Way out near Fin Gardens, the overly large Amir Kabir claims to have had a makeover but if that’s true then they should be asking for a refund. The rooms are still tired and overpriced, though discounts are usually possible. Minibuses to town run past the front door, or a taxi will cost IR10,000.
Khan-e Ameriha (Alavi St; ) When completed, parts of this wondrous traditional house will be open as a lavishly furnished and decorated traditional hotel. Expect to pay more than US$100 a night. Also Click here.
Eating
RESTAURANTS
With the much-loved Delpazir recently closed, finding a memorable (for the right reasons) meal in Kashan can be a trial. If something good opens, do let us know.
Sayyah Restaurant ( 444 4535; Abazar St; meals IR40,000; 7am-9pm) Under the hotel of the same name, the standard Iranian fare here gets mixed reviews but none of them has criticised the size of the serves.
The garden restaurants lining the road before Fin Garden are the best places to eat and are hugely popular with Kashanis, especially in the evenings. Most have water running soothingly through the eating area and the whole experience is quite social.
Jawed Traditional Restaurant ( 533 7123; Amir Kabir Rd; meals IR35,000-60,000; 11.30am-3pm & 6-11pm) Arguably the best of the garden restaurants, Jawed serves several varieties of delicious kababs and some less meaty dishes, all washed down with chay (tea) and qalyan (water pipe).
TEAHOUSES & CAFÉS
Hammam-e Khan ( 445 2572; Bazaar; 8am-9pm) Down a few stairs from the bazaar (look for the sign), this old bathhouse is now a genuinely local teahouse, complete with tweeting birds, neon lights, disco ball, plastic-covered cushions and…locals (plus the odd Iranian tourist). Be sure to specify if you only want tea, not the accompanying biscuits and dates, which cost extra.
Chaykhaneh Caravan Sara (Timche-ye Amin al Dowleh, in the Bazaar; 8am-8pm) This tiny place under the cavernous dome is rightly famous for its richly flavoured dizi (soup-stew meal) and tea, and you can go onto the roof (buy something first).
Getting There & Away
BUS, MINIBUS & SAVARI
As with Qom, most