Iran - Andrew Burke [187]
BOOKSHOPS
Bookshops in the complex opposite the Abbasi Hotel also sell a few English-language books on Iran.
Abbasi Hotel Bookshop (Map; 223 2967; Shahid Medani St; 7.30am-10.30pm) Expensive, but has big range, including many out-of-print works on Iran.
Kowsar International Hotel (Map; 624 0230; Mellat Blvd) On the ground floor.
EMERGENCY
Ambulance ( 115)
Tourist police (Map; 221 5953; Chahar Bagh Abbasi St; 24hr) Very helpful English-speaking officers can be found at this booth in the middle of the street outside the Madraseh-ye Chahar Bagh.
INTERNET ACCESS
Esfahan’s coffeenets (internet cafés) seem to open and close faster than the door of a filthy squat toilet, but you should always be able to find something along Chahar Bagh Abbasi St. More-established coffeenets:
Central Library of Esfahan (Map; 222 3698; Goldasteh Ave; per hr IR5000; 8am-8pm Sat-Thu) Friendly, English-speaking staff and loads of terminals. Could be faster.
Negareh Internet Café (Map; 220 8645; Chahar Bagh Abbasi St; per hr IR6000; 7am-11pm) Cheap, very fast, with an associated travel agency for tours and tickets. It’s inside an arcade, upstairs on the left. Arctic air-con. Some machines have Skype.
Rose Internet (Map; Imam Hossein Sq; per hr IR8000; 8am-9pm Sat-Thu, 9.30am-7pm Fri) New, fast machines, and ports for laptops.
Sky Net Internet (Map; Jamal-od Din Abdolrazagh St, near Takhti Junction; per hr IR8000; 10.30am-10pm) Near the budget accommodation.
Several carpet shops around Imam Sq let you check email for free in exchange for the opportunity to bend your ear about carpets, including Nomad Carpet Shop and Aladdin Carpets.
MEDICAL SERVICES
Al-Zahra Hospital (Map; 668 4444; Soffeh St) Best hospital in Esfahan. English-speaking doctors.
Dr Hosseini Pharmacy (Map; 222 3511; Shahid Medani St; 24hr) Central and well stocked.
Esfahan Hospital (Map; 223 0015; Shams Abadi St) Convenient and recommended.
MONEY
To change, head straight to Sepah St, where the Bank Melli and exchange shops compete for your forex.
Bank Melli Central Branch (Bank Melli Markazi; Map; Sepah St) Upstairs. English is spoken.
Jahan-e Arz Money Changer (Map; Sepah St; 9am-4pm Sat-Thu)
POST
DHL (Map; 221 3520; Shahid Medani Ave; 8am-5pm Sat-Wed, 8am-noon Thu) Upstairs in the complex opposite Abbasi Hotel.
Main post office (Map; Neshat St) East of Imam Sq; come here to post anything big – like a carpet. Also has EMS.
Post office (Map; Imam Sq) Postcards and letters.
TELEPHONE
International telephone office (Map; Chahar Bagh Abbasi St; 8am-2.15pm & 3.30-7pm Sat-Thu)
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ESFAHAN IN…
Two days
Start by taking the ‘Half of the World’ Walking Tour, which will take up most of your first day. Dinner at the traditional Sofreh Khaneh Sonnati on the square is a good option. On the second day, head back to Imam Square in the morning for a more leisurely look around and to suss out the carpet shops for something that might look good on your floor. After lunch, wander down to the Zayandeh River for a bridge-appreciation walk, stopping for tea and poetry recitals along the way.
Four days
On the third day, take the bus out to Manar Jomban (Shaking Minarets; ), then walk up to the Ateshkadeh-ye Esfahan for a (hopefully clear) view over Esfahan. Walk back into town along the riverbank, watching the cloth-makers drying their wares on the river-bed and stopping for tea with the locals. Get back to Jolfa in time to see the striking frescoes of Vank Cathedral, then spend the evening eating in the relaxed Armenian quarter.
On day four, just chill out in the square, on a bridge, in the garden around the Hasht Behesht Palace; or in your favourite teahouse with a book, or renew your visa.
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TOURIST INFORMATION
Tourist information office (Map; 221 3840, 221 6831; Imam Sq; 8.30am-5pm Sat-Thu & 2.30-6pm Fri) Under the Ali Qapu Palace; helpful English-speaking staff have maps and brochures on city and province. The Esfahan Tourist Guides Association operates from here; see Tours (below).
TOURS
Several carpet shops