Iran - Andrew Burke [193]
Madraseh-ye Chahar Bagh
The Madraseh-ye Chahar Bagh (Madraseh-ye Mazadar-e Shah or Theological School of the Shah’s Mother; Map; Chahar Bagh Abbasi St; No Ruz only) was built between 1704 and 1714 as part of an expansive complex that included a caravanserai (now the Abbasi Hotel) and the Bazar-e Honar. Revenues from these buildings paid for the upkeep of the madraseh.
Entry is through an imposing wood-and-silver door but this, unfortunately, is mostly closed to visitors. Apart from the two-week No Ruz period (admission IR30,000), you’ll need to befriend a student to get in. If you do, you’ll find a tree-filled courtyard surrounded by two-storey porches leading to the students’ rooms. Around it are a prayer hall with a superb mihrab, two of the finest Safavid-era minarets in Esfahan, some exquisite mosaics and an attractive dome.
Hammam-e Ali Gholi Agha
In the historic district of Bid Abad, the recently restored Hammam-e Ali Gholi Agha (Ali Gholi Agha Bathhouse; Map; Ali Gholi Agha Alley, off Masjed-e Sayyed St; admission IR10,000; 8.30am-5pm Sat-Thu, 9am-3pm Fri) is now a well-maintained (but poorly signed) museum to bathhouses. Fortunately there is information at the entrance, explaining the Qajar-era history and uses of the hammam. English-speaking guides are also available. It’s worth a look, especially if you didn’t see Hammam-e Sultan Mir Ahmad in Kashan.
To get there, walk west from Takhti Junction on Masjed-e Sayyed St, and turn right (north) down Ali Gholi Agha St, 50m beyond the junction with Tayab St. Walk about 250m and turn right inside a covered bazaar, then left at the mosque.
Zayandeh River Bridges
There are few better ways to spend an afternoon than strolling along the Zayandeh River (Map), crossing back and forth using the old fairy-tale bridges and listening to Esfahanis reciting poetry and just chilling out. Such a stroll is especially pleasant at sunset and early evening when most of the bridges are illuminated. In total, 11 bridges (six are new) cross the Zayandeh. All but one of the historic Safavid-era crossings lie to the east of Chahar Bagh St – the exception is the shorter Marnan Bridge (Pol-e Marnan; Map) – but most people satisfy themselves with the walk from Si-o-Seh Bridge to Khaju Bridge, and back.
Si-o-Seh Bridge
The 298m-long Si-o-Seh Bridge (Pol-e Si-o-Seh, Bridge of 33 Arches or Allahverdi Khan Bridge; Map) was built by Allahverdi Khan, a favourite general of Shah Abbas I, between 1599 and 1602 to link the upper and lower halves of Chahar Bagh St. It served as both bridge and dam, and is still used to hold water today. Until recently there were teahouses at either end of the bridge, both accessed through the larger arches underneath, though only the northern one remains (Click here).
Chubi Bridge
Nearly 150m long, and with 21 arches, Chubi Bridge (Map) was built by Shah Abbas II in 1665, primarily to help irrigate palace gardens in the area. Chubi and the two parlours within were for the exclusive use of the shah and his courtiers. Until recently one of these parlours was one of the most atmospheric teahouses in Iran; hopefully it will be again.
Khaju Bridge
Arguably the finest of Esfahan’s bridges, the Khaju Bridge (Map) was built by Shah Abbas II in about 1650 (although a bridge is believed to have crossed the waters here since the time of Tamerlane). It also doubles as a dam, and has always been as much a meeting place as a bearer of traffic.
Its 110m length has two levels of terraced arcades, the lower containing locks regulating water flow. If you look hard, you can still see original paintings and tiles, and the remains of stone seats built for Shah Abbas II to sit on and admire the views. In the centre, a pavilion was built exclusively for his pleasure. It was a teahouse, but not anymore. Vendors at the end of the bridge sell tea and snacks.
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MOURNING ZAYANDEH RIVER TEAHOUSES
One of the great joys of any visit to Esfahan used to be walking along the Zayendeh River and stopping in the atmospheric teahouses in the Khaju, Chubi and Si-o-Seh