Iran - Andrew Burke [196]
From the mosque, skirt around Qeyam Sq, stopping for a look at the bird market (6), and head down Haruniyeh St. You’ll soon see the attractive, 48m-high Minaret of the Mosque of Ali (7; Manar-e Masjed-e Ali). Inside the mosque, which was rebuilt in 1522, are some impressive Safavid paintings that until recently were hidden under Qajar-era decoration. Opposite the mosque and back about 20m is the 16th-century Mausoleum of Harun Vilayet (8; Bogh-e Harun Vilayet), an important pilgrimage site containing some high-quality frescoes depicting the son of the 10th, or perhaps the 11th, Shiite Imam (no-one is quite sure). The courtyard also contains big, photogenic mosaics of Khomeini and Khamenei.
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WALKING TOUR
Start Hakim Mosque
Finish Sofreh Khaneh Sonnati
Distance about 7km
Duration four to seven hours, depending on how often you stop and for how long
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Continuing west keep right to rejoin the main bazaar and wander southwest through the shafts of sunlight and spice-filled air towards Imam Sq. En route, the Madraseh-ye Sadr (9) has a large, green courtyard that can provide momentary respite from the bustling bazaar. On entering Imam Square (10; Click here) through the grand Qeysarieh Portal (11; Click here), go straight upstairs to the delightful Qeysarieh Tea Shop (12; Click here), overlooking the square. After tea, launch into the square by either following the covered bazaars or by setting off to explore the jewels of Esfahan: the Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque (13; Click here), Imam Mosque (14; Click here)and the Ali Qapu Palace (15; Click here).
If you still have the energy, exit through the rear of Ali Qapu Palace and cross to the Chehel Sotun Palace (16; Click here) on Ostandari St. If not, just head back up to the Qeysarieh Tea Shop (yes, there’s no better viewing spot!) to watch the light play softly over the square as the sun goes down and the lights come up. Sublime! Round off the day with a meal at the traditional Sofreh Khaneh Sonnati (17; Click here).
Sleeping
Much of Esfahan’s accommodation is relatively expensive and rather lacking in character. However, in recent years the city’s first traditional hotels have opened, so things are improving in the midrange area especially. Esfahan is best discovered on foot and most of these places are within walking distance of Imam Sq.
Esfahan’s high season runs from mid-March until the end of June, when rooms can be scarce. At other times, bargain your head off.
BUDGET
Amir Kabir Hostel (Map; 222 7273; mrziaee@hotmail.com; Chahar Bagh Abbasi St; dm/s/tw/tr IR35,000/75,000/120,000/150,000; ) For years the Amir Kabir has been Esfahan’s backpacker base and, for lack of competition, it still is. The managers, Ziaee brothers, might not like spending money, but they’re helpful enough with advice on timetables, booking onward tickets and some reasonably priced tours. Rooms and the dorm are basic, and cleanliness is not as consistent as it could be. Breakfast is served for an extra IR15,000.
Kakh Inn (Map; 222 5650; omid_anvary@yahoo.com; Chahar Bagh Abbasi St; s/tw/tr with breakfast IR90,000/160,000/180,000) Small rooms here have shortish beds, bathrooms (most of them) and that’s it. But manager Omid creates a good feel.
Shad Hostel (Map; 221 8621; fax 220 4264; Chahar Bagh Abbasi St; s/d US$11/18) A good-value, central option, with small, clean two- and three-bed rooms and sometimes-whiffy shared bathrooms. Front rooms are noisy.
Sahel Hotel (Map; 222 1702; www.sahelhotel.com; Chahar Bagh Abbasi St; s US$16-21, tw US$22-29; ) Fresh paint, soft beds and bathrooms make this central place fair value by Esfahan standards. English-speaking manager is helpful and there’s the atmospheric Bame Sahel Teahouse upstairs.