Iran - Andrew Burke [201]
The Bazar-e Bozorg (Map) and the arcades around Imam Sq (Map) are literally full of shops. You will find postcards and junk souvenirs for sale in one store, and expensive works of art in the next. Stores vary by price, quality and honesty, with competition among the carpet dealers particularly fierce (and sometimes nasty), so don’t pay too much attention to what one shop owner says about his competitor. For more information, Click here.
Some places do employ high-pressure sales tactics, but most are friendly and willing to chat over a chay without twisting your arm too much. It can actually be quite enjoyable as long as you remember that you don’t have to buy anything. Nevertheless, whatever you’re shopping for, check prices in several stores and bargain hard (see What A Bargain, Click here).
A few Imam Sq shops recommended by readers:
Aladdin Carpets (Map; 221 1461; aladdin_shop@yahoo.com; Imam Sq) Small shop, interesting range of carpets, experienced salesmen, underwhelming nomad tours.
Fallahi Miniatures Shahid Medani St (Map; 222 4613); Saadi St (Map; 222 6733; off Imam Sq) Charming and internationally renowned Hossein Fallahi’s works are excellent.
Nomad Carpet Shop (Map; 221 9275; nomadshop@yahoo.com; Imam Sq) Almost-comatose approach to selling, mainly tribal range of carpets and kilims.
Getting There & Away
AIR
The Iran Air office (Map; 222 8200; www.iranair.com; Shahid Medani St) is in the shopping complex opposite the Abbasi Hotel. See the following table of domestic services; Iran Air also flies twice a week to Dubai and three times to Kuwait City. Kish Air flies to Kish and Dubai.
BUS
Esfahan has two main bus terminals: Kaveh terminal (Map) in the north is the busiest and is the terminal you’re most likely to use; while Soffeh terminal (Map) is in the south. Except at the busiest times it’s easiest to just get your tickets at the terminal before you depart. Alternatively, accommodation such as the Amir Kabir Hostel and the Negareh Internet Café Click here can book tickets for a small commission.
See the following table for routes from Kaveh; fares are for mahmooly/Volvo buses, or just Volvo. As there are no bus offices in town, it’s a good idea to ask about departure times of buses when you first arrive in Esfahan.
For the Kaveh terminal, take a shuttle taxi north along Chahar Bagh St for IR2500; to get to Soffeh, take one from just south of the Si-o-Seh Bridge (IR3000). A private taxi to either terminal will cost between IR10,000 and IR30,000 depending on your bargaining prowess. The Esfahan Metro will (one day) link the two terminals via Chahar Bagh St.
MINIBUS & TAXI
For destinations around Esfahan there are two minibus terminals. The Zayandeh Rud terminal (Map) has services to Shahr-e Kord (IR5000, two hours, 107km), with departures every hour or so. To get to Zayandeh Rud terminal, take a shuttle taxi west from just south of the Si-o-Seh Bridge (IR3000).
From the Jey minibus terminal (Map), there are at least five departures each day to Yazd (IR10,000, six hours, 316km). Minibuses also go to Na’in (IR5000, three to four hours, 138km) and Ardestan (IR6000, 132km). To get to the Jey minibus terminal, take a shuttle taxi from Takhti Junction (IR1500).
Savaris leave from outside the terminals far more frequently than minibuses but for about three times the price, such as the service to Shahr-e Kord (IR15,000, 80 minutes).
TRAIN
There is a daily train between Esfahan and Tehran (six-berth IR35,15, 7½ hours) that leaves at 11.30pm and stops at Kashan. Trains also run to Mashhad (Ghazal/six-berth IR199,000/92,850, 18½ hours, 5.50pm daily) and Bandar Abbas (six-berth/six-seat IR66,100/41,700, 2.25pm Monday, Wednesday and Friday). The new line to Shiraz will open in 2010 at the earliest.
The Raja Trains ticket office (Map; 222 4425; Enqelab-e Eslami