Iran - Andrew Burke [204]
Toudeshk
0312
Most people take a bus or savari straight through to Na’in, but it’s well worth stopping in on Mohammad Jalali and the villagers at Toudeshk, 95km – or one day’s cycling – from Esfahan. This classic desert village of mud-brick buildings, badgirs and hospitable locals has been hosting cyclists for years. And now Mohammad and co are eager to welcome others so they too can experience the real Iran and dispel the stereotypes.
English-speaking Mohammad works for a cultural heritage NGO called Miras-e Yarane Jadeye Abrisham (Heritage of Silk Road Followers). It’s hard to summarise exactly what they do, but visitors to Toudeshk will live desert life as it’s been lived for centuries. That includes a guided walk through the ancient town, chay, eating a local meal, chay, bathing hammam-style and sleeping desert-style, chay, and if you’ve got more time, visiting the Gavkhuni Wetland 70km away. Oh, and that traditional desert activity – free internet. All this for US$8 a night. Sounds good? Contact Mohammad Jalali ( 0312-637 2586, 0913 365 4420; silkroadngo@yahoo.com) for details.
If you’re not pedalling, take any bus, minibus or savari from Esfahan or Na’in, and ask to get off at Toudeshk.
Na’in
0323 / pop 26,300 / elev 1557m
Slumbering Na’in is an important transit point at the geographical centre of Iran and the start of the desert road to Tabas and Mashhad. The ancient town has long been famous for its carpets and 10th-century Jameh Mosque. This mosque has no iwan and is especially notable for its fine mihrab and innovative yet simple use of stucco decoration, which is remarkably well preserved. Watch out also for the restored traditional houses dotted around town. For local knowledge, seek out enthusiastic computer shop owner–cum–freelance guide Mahmood Mohammadipour ( 225 7930; greenmemoryna@yahoo.com), who will happily show you around.
There are two sleeping options. Budgeteers should try good-value Mosaferkhaneh Gholami ( 225 2441, 0913 223 4667; r IR70,000), about 300m east of Imam Sq towards the Imamzadeh; there’s no English sign but it’s a three-storey place above a bakery. Alternatively, the government-run excellent Na’in Tourist Inn (Jahangardi Inn; 225 3088; fax 225 3665; Shahid Rajaie St; r US$40; ) has stylish split-level apartment-style rooms, 150m southwest of Imam Sq.
Food and internet cafés are concentrated on or near Imam Sq, including Keliza Pizza (Imam Sq; 11.30am-10pm) and Teria Torang Coffee Shop (Imam Sq; 10am-8pm Sat-Thu).
Regular buses run from Esfahan (IR5000, 138km, two hours), Kashan (2½ to three hours) and Yazd (1½ to two hours) to Na’in. There is also a direct minibus from Esfahan’s Jey minibus terminal (IR7000, three to 3½ hours). Buses usually stop at the roundabout a few hundred metres from Imamzadeh Soltan Said Ali. For Garmeh, wait here at about 4pm for buses en route to Mashhad, which stop at Khur (IR20,000, four hours).
Garmeh
0324 / pop – about 260 people & two camels / elev 857m
The tiny oasis village of Garmeh is everything you’d imagine an oasis village to be. More than 25 varieties of date palm spread out from a small spring, and where the palms finish the 1600-year-old mud-brick village begins. In the midst of this village is Ateshoni ( 443 2156, 0913 223 0874; www.ateshooni.com; per person IR220,000), where Tehrani artist Maziar Ale Davoud and his family have renovated their 265-year-old home into an oasis of the soul in this oasis in the desert. Rates include all the food (such as wonderful dates, pomegranates and the to-die-for cooking of Hadi and Sarra) you can eat.
Part of the beauty of Garmeh is its total, overwhelming silence. When you’re not chilling out in the quiet, for a few extra dollars you can hike to hot-water springs, take a desert mountain walk, visit the salt deserts or go camel riding. Accommodation is in the traditional style, with basic mattresses unfolded on the floor of your room.
Ateshoni