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on Earth’. This might be a difficult claim to verify, but it is widely believed the site has been continually inhabited for about 7000 years. Its position on important trading routes and a tendency towards diplomacy go some way to explaining Yazd’s longevity. The fact that commercial prosperity never really translated into real political power is probably another reason. When Marco Polo passed this way in the 13th century, he described Yazd as ‘a very fine and splendid city and a centre of commerce’. It was spared destruction by Genghis Khan and Tamerlane, and flourished in the 14th and 15th centuries, with silk, textile and carpet production the main home-grown industry. Like most of Iran, Yazd fell into decline when the Safavids were defeated and remained little more than a provincial outpost until the last shah extended the railway line to Yazd.

Orientation

Yazd is laid out on a very loose northeast–southwest grid, the centre of which is Beheshti Sq. Within this grid, however, lies the mud-brick old city, a warren of kuches (lanes) and covered walkways and bazaars. Expect to get lost when walking around the old city – when you want to get out, just ask for directions or orient yourself by climbing until you can see the minarets of the Jameh Mosque.

Most of the hotels listed are in the old city and it’s easy enough to explore the town on foot. Imam Khomeini St is the main street, running northeast from Beheshti Sq. It’s crossed by Qeyam St, from where the bazaar fans out.

The airport is on the western fringe of the city while the train station and bus terminal are about 2.5km southwest of Beheshti Sq.

Information

EMERGENCY

Dr Mogibiyan Hospital ( 624 0061; Kashani St) For urgent problems.

Police headquarters ( 110; Azadi Sq)

Tourist police ( 621 4444; 24hr) Opposite the Heidarzadeh Coin Museum.

INTERNET ACCESS

Both of the following places can burn photos to either CD or DVD.

Friendly Internet (Masjed-e Jameh St; per hr IR8000; 9am-1pm & 5-10pm) ‘Is everything alright?’ Eager to please.

Issatis.net ( 623 1425; www.issatis.net; Kashani St; per hr IR6000; 9am-1.30pm & 5-9.30pm Thu) Not so convenient, but the services here include international calls, writing DVDs and the sale of pre-paid internet access and international phonecards.

MEDICAL SERVICES

Chamran 24-hour Pharmacy ( 626 6900; Farrokhi St)

MONEY

Banks in Yazd take a commission of about US$2 on exchanges.

Bank Melli Central Branch (Shohada Crossroads) Exchange is upstairs.

Bank Tejarat (Qeyam St) Also upstairs.

Yazd Exchange ( 624 7220; www.yazdexchange.com; Kashani St; 8am-10pm) Opposite the Ateshkadeh, these guys have a good reputation for the best rates; call them and they’ll deliver the cash to your hotel. Also has an office at the airport and can safely store luggage.

POST

Main post office (Ghasem Abad St; 7.30am-2pm) It’s out of town but you’ll have to come here if you’re looking to turn your rug into a flying carpet.

Post office (Imam Khomeini St) Near Bank Melli.

TELEPHONE

Far Away International Telephone (Imam Khomeini St; calls per min IR2500; 9am-1pm & 4-10pm)

Main telephone office (Motahhari St)

Shohada Telephone Office (Amir Chakhmaq Sq; 8am-10pm Sat-Thu, 8am-2pm & 5-10pm Fri)

TOURIST INFORMATION

Tourist information office ( 621 6542-5; info@caravansalar.ir; Ziaee Sq; 9am-6pm, to 8pm summer) A few maps and brochures, but mainly about selling tours. There should usually be an English-speaker there.

TOURS

Most hotels can arrange tours but using an independent guide can be more rewarding. The following can lead tours to almost anywhere in Yazd province, and further, and have been recommended. The most common tour is the Kharanaq–Chak Chak–Meybod loop (about US$40 for three or less people, US$55 with breakfast and lunch), which is impossible on public transport. Other options include camel tours (about US$25 per person for a half-day, US$75 overnight, more for groups comprised of fewer than five people) and desert walks (one day and one night about US$20 per person). Old city tours are also popular.