Iran - Andrew Burke [211]
Since Zoroastrians believe in the purity of the elements, they refuse to bury their dead (pollutes the earth) or cremate them (pollutes the atmosphere). Instead, the dead were exposed in ‘towers of silence’, where their bones were soon cleaned up by the vultures. Nowadays, deceased Zoroastrians are usually buried in graves lined with concrete to prevent ‘contamination’ of the earth.
Many Zoroastrian temples are adorned with bas-relief winged figures that symbolise Fravahar, the part of the spirit that reaches Ahura Mazda after death. The old man symbolises experience and wisdom, the three layers of feathers on the wings symbolise purity of thought, word and deed, and the semi-long tail in front represents Vohu Mano, while the rear tail is Ahem Nano.
Of the 150,000 or more Zoroastrians in the world, the number in and around Yazd has dwindled to about 5500. Zoroastrian women can be recognised by their patterned headscarves and embroidered dresses with predominant colours of white, cream or red. They never wear chadors, but do follow the strict hejab laws governing women’s dress.
Zoroastrianism is also known as Mazdaism from the name of its supreme god, Ahura Mazda, and as Magism from the name of its ancient priests, the magi. The Three Wise Men of the Bible are believed to have been Zoroastrian magi, hence the Adoration of the Magi.
* * *
Getting in is difficult as the caretaker is often not around. Try knocking at the small gate in a side alley, but if that doesn’t work your best bet is a Zoroastrian guide Click here. In the northeast of Yazd, the Fortress of Lions (Ghal’eh-ye Asadan) houses another Zoroastrian eternal flame. It is also usually closed.
Towers of Silence
Set on two lonely, barren hilltops on the southern outskirts of Yazd are the evocative Zoroastrian Towers of Silence (Dakhmeh-ye Zartoshtiyun). In accordance with Zoroastrian beliefs about the purity of the earth, dead bodies were not buried but left in these uncovered stone towers so that vultures could pick the bones clean. Such towers have not been used since the ’60s. At the foot of the hills are several other disused Zoroastrian buildings, including a defunct well, a water cistern and two small badgirs, a kitchen and a lavatory. The modern Zoroastrian cemetery is nearby. The easiest way to get here is by chartering a private taxi for about IR30,000 return, including waiting time of 45 minutes or so. Ask for Dakhmeh-ye Zartoshtiyun.
Get Lost In Yazd Walking Tour
* * *
WALKING TOUR
Start Amir Chakhmaq Complex
Finish Hammam-e Khan Restaurant
Distance about 5km
Duration three to five hours, depending on how often you get lost
* * *
Start at the Amir Chakhmaq Complex (1; Click here), and check out the nearby Amir Chakhmaq Mosque (2) and, on the opposite corner, the Yazd Water Museum (3; see The Qanat, Click here). From here, head up Imam Khomeini St, take a quick look at the Hazireh Mosque (4), and turn left up Masjed-e Jameh St. Before you reach the imposing mosque, turn down a lane to the right to see the stunning portal of the turquoise-domed Bogheh-ye Sayyed Roknaddin (5; Click here). If you’re hungry, you could now stop at the Orient Hotel (6; opposite) for lunch and a spectacular view, or continue into the Jameh Mosque (7, Click here). Exit the mosque through the northeastern door (near the qanat), turn right, then left, and keep straight for about 75m to a junction with several arches and open ceilings. Turn left here and you’ll reach an open space with a playground. Stay on the right (eastern) side and keep heading northeast. After about 250m on Fazel St a small lane leads off to the right, where a water reservoir (8) surrounded by four badgirs stands next to a shaded park. Continue left (northeast), parallel to Fazel St, and you’ll pass the Kohan Hotel. Stay straight another 100m or so and you’ll come to Mirzazadeh St. To the right is the Heidarzadeh