Iran - Andrew Burke [242]
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BANDARI BURQAS
In the Persian Gulf provinces, and particularly in Bandar-e Lengeh, Bandar Abbas and Minab, you will see Bandari women wearing the burqa. This inflexible mask differs depending on the region; in Lengeh it is usually a metal frame jutting from the face but hiding very little of the face itself – vaguely reminiscent of the structure of Darth Vader’s mask. In Minab it is often bright red with multicoloured stitching along the border, covering all of the face that’s not already hidden by the chador (except for two tiny slits for the eyes). Ethnologists do not believe these masks have any religious links, but were a fashion accessory introduced during the period of Portuguese rule.
Bandari women have traditionally worn tattoos on their faces and, sometimes, their hands, though these are becoming less common. They wear eye-catchingly colourful pants, often in red or green, which are worn tight around the ankle and usually have elaborate gold patterns stitched above the hem. Some Bandari women wear the shamat, a finely patterned, gauze-like chador that comes in pale colours; usually blue, orange, cream, beige and pink. It’s draped Indian-style around the body and head. Others wear chadors that look more like those found in other Arab parts of the Gulf, with several fine cloths in black, one folded over to hang down from the head with another fastened above the ears, meaning their eyes can be uncovered or, with a flick of the cloth, the woman can disappear completely behind this black curtain.
If you think your mother-in-law might look good in a burqa, head for the market in Minab and ask around. The locals will think you’re mad, but a burqa could make a, well, provocative gift.
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The main streets are Imam Khomeini Blvd (the coastal road and esplanade) and Enqelab St, opposite the port. This is not a town where foreigners are expected; few signs are in English, but it would be hard to get lost.
Information
Pretty much everything shuts down between about 12.30pm and 5pm or 6pm. To change money, head to Bank Saderat (Shahrdari St) or the Money Exchange ( 224 4373; 17 Shahrivar St; 8am-1pm & 5-8pm Sat-Thu). Make phone calls from Valiasr International Telephone Centre (Enqelab St; 7.30am-1pm & 4-9pm).
Sights
During the day, especially in summer, there’s little to do except observe the obligatory five- or six-hour siesta. By late afternoon it’s a lovely place to wander when the setting sun turns the town a soft shade of yellow. Sights include several pale-stone mosques, with single minarets decorated in the Arab style, and a few old and largely derelict Bandari buildings made of mud brick with squat badgirs.
Sleeping & Eating
There’s a total of two hotels in Lengeh. Lengeh’s eating scene has improved since we first came here, but you’ll still have the typical Iranian options – kabab, burger, pizza and, thankfully, fish. Enqelab St is home to the fast-food places, a well-stocked minimarket and an oh-so-welcome ice-cream shop.
Hotel Amir ( 224 2311; Enqelab St; r IR70,000; ) A short walk from the port, the Amir has simple but clean rooms and shared bathrooms; and some staff are helpful. Guests can use the kitchen.
Bandar Lengeh Inn (Mehmar Sara Jahangardi; 222 2566; d with breakfast US$35; ) Most of the plain but clean rooms have Gulf views though you’ll need big biceps to get the windows open. It’s 1.8km west of town down a lonely side road but the position, literally on the water’s edge, justifies the trip.
Flowers Restaurant ( 224 0421; Imam Khomeini Blvd; meals IR25,000-40,000; 11am-4pm & 6-11pm Sat-Thu) Opposite the port, Flowers serves a reasonable selection of Iranian fare in a surprisingly inviting little restaurant; good value.
Amir Restaurant ( 224 1370; Enqelab St; meals IR40,000-60,000; 12-4pm & 6-11pm) Underneath the hotel of the same name, this no-frills restaurant and teahouse serves delicious Iranian fare. We can vouch for both the khoresht