Iran - Andrew Burke [245]
BUDGET
Mosaferkhaneh-ye Bazar ( 222 2303; cnr Taleqani Blvd & Hafez St; dm/s/tw/tr IR25,000/51,000/69,300/82,100) If you’re on a budget, this busy, clean but ultra-simple place above the bazaar is the cheapest in town. In summer, beds on the covered rooftop (just IR15,000) afford wonderful views of the smugglers and sunset over the Persian Gulf. It’s social, male-dominated and unashamedly downmarket, with shared bathrooms. Relaxed security and lots of glass walls mean it’s not great for women.
Mema Pazir Bouali ( 222 2516; Shariati St, near Abuzar Sq; tw/tr IR70,000/80,000) The faded-yellow awning and anonymous staircase don’t promise much, and the noisy, no-frills rooms and shared bathrooms don’t deliver much. But the welcoming mother and daughter, who will practise their English with you – and the price – make it worth a look.
Bolvar Inn ( 222 2625; Abuzar St; r IR105,000; ) We liked the atmosphere in this unpretentious, family-run place set around a courtyard filled with the din of air-conditioners. Rooms and toilets are clean, but there’s only one shower.
The next two places are tricky to find. It’s best to get a taxi to 17 Shahrivar Sq, then walk east about 40m from the square, turn left down an alley beside a multi-storey building (look for the wooden beams protruding from the wall), past the international telephone office and turn right. The Kawsar is there, and the Darya another 150m down the street opposite Kawsar.
Hotel Kawsar ( 224 2389; Eskele St; s/tw IR150,000/ 200,000; ) The big, clean rooms and shared bathrooms (all rooms) are aging, but acceptable. Staff don’t speak English.
Hotel Darya ( /fax 224 1942-49; Eskele St; s/tw/apt IR160,000/220,000/600,000; ) Recently refurbished, the Hotel Darya is probably the pick of the half-decent budget places. Rooms here are clean and pleasant enough, with good beds, fridge and Iranian TV, but if you’re in a single you’ll have to share a bathroom. The seven flights of stairs can get tedious.
To check out these and a couple of other budget options not listed here, you should start at Abuzar Sq (Meydan-e Abuzar) and walk.
MIDRANGE
Hotel Amin ( /fax 224 4305; Taleqani Blvd; s/tw/tr with breakfast IR280,000/350,000/500,000; ) On the seafront west of the bazaar, the glass-fronted Amin is a good-value midrange hotel that has been praised by readers. The refurbished rooms are small but well-equipped (with overhead fans!), and the management has some concept of service.
Hotel Ghods ( /fax 222 2344; Imam Khomeini St, cnr Haleh Alley; s/d IR450,000/500,000; ) The Ghods has the size and fittings you’d expect in a midrange hotel, but little of the personal charm you might like. Rooms are big and you can choose to squat or sit in the bathroom. The upper floors have city views, but the restaurant is overpriced.
Atilar Hotel ( 222 7420-25; 17 Shahrivar St; s/d/tr US$45/65/80 with breakfast; ) Dominating the centre of town, this brand new multi-storey hotel has modern-looking, big and fairly stylish rooms; upper levels have views across town or to the Gulf. Staff speak English. Atilar is a good choice.
TOP END
Hormoz Hotel ( 334 2201-5; www.hormoz-hotel.com; Enqelab Sq; s/d/ste US$88/123/193; ) Clearly the pick of Bandar’s lodgings, the enormous Hormoz is an international standard hotel with the look, facilities and most of the service that entails. Rooms are luxurious and most have a balcony – with either views or glimpses of the Gulf. There are four restaurants (for details of one option, see Sea Restaurant, Click here) and cafés, and an indoor pool.
Eating
Bandar is not noted as one of Iran’s culinary capitals, though the seafood is reasonably good. The local speciality is chelo meigu (battered prawns or shrimps with boiled rice), and the deep-fried theme extends to fish, too.
Fast food and kababis (kabab shops) can be found around Abuzar Sq on Imam Khomeini