Iran - Andrew Burke [251]
But Portugal’s stranglehold over vital international trading routes could hardly fail to arouse the resentment of Persia and the other rising imperial powers. In 1550 Ottoman forces besieged the fortress of Hormoz for a month but failed to take the island. In the early 1600s Shah Abbas I granted the British East India Company trading rights with Persia through the mainland port of Jask, thus breaking the Portuguese monopoly. In 1622 Abbas, who had no naval power with which to challenge the Portuguese, cunningly detained the company’s silk purchase until the English agreed to send a force to help liberate Hormoz. The Portuguese put up a brave defence, but ultimately were forced off the island.
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The archway opens onto a wide courtyard facing the sea. On the right as you enter is the ancient armoury. In the middle of the courtyard is a subterranean church that has some splendid vaulted ceilings. Before following the path marked by stones up onto the ramparts, you can visit the ground-floor room of the watchtower if the door is open. Higher up is another door to the submerged ‘water supply’, a surprisingly deep and impressive cistern circled by an elevated interior walkway. The crumbling upper levels of the castle offer fine views back over the village to the starkly beautiful mountains, all surrounded by the blue Gulf waters; it’s the perfect place to sit, soak up the silence and let your mind wander back a few hundred years.
Officially there is a IR2000 entrance fee, but in three trips we’ve yet to find anyone to take our money. Entrance fee or not, it’s worth finding the old caretaker to let you into the locked doors of the tower and water supply – a tip is appreciated.
Hormoz Village
This pleasant little village is interesting, though there’s nothing much to do except ramble through the maze of kuches (lanes). In the northern-most corner is the small Sunni Jameh-ye Imam Shafe’i Mosque.
There is nowhere to stay or eat on Hormoz Island, though we met two travellers who camped on the beach with some young Tehranis on holiday. Small grocery stores on the road between the castle and port sell bottled water, soft drinks, biscuits and ice creams.
Getting There & Around
The only way to get to Hormoz is by speedboat (one way, IR10,000, about 30 minutes) from the main jetty in Bandar Abbas. Except during winter, Hormoz is witheringly hot and there isn’t much shade, so start as early as possible. Boats leave when full – every 15 or so minutes in the morning and less often later. The last boats usually return to Bandar about 4pm, but check this at the port.
Hardy souls who want to get into the island’s interior can try talking a local into taking them by motorcycle or, more creatively, chartering a boat to circumnavigate the island. If you choose to do the latter, be wary of tides, leave a trip plan with the police and take enough food and water for a full day, plus a bit extra in case of emergency.
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MINAB
0765 / pop 81,000
Wedged between a line of rocky desert hills and luxuriant date-palm plantations, Minab was once the biggest town in the region. Today it has a mañana feel except on Thursday, when the famous Thursday market (see opposite) draws merchants and shoppers from far and wide. Bandari, Arabic and Indian influences are common, with both the burqa and colourful shamat (a finely patterned, gauze-like chador) particularly popular (see Bandari Burqas, Click here). One reader described the women of Minab as: ‘A truly intoxicating sight after the oppressive uniformity of black “tents” elsewhere.’
Minab is easy enough to navigate. The old town starts at Esteghlal Sq at the south end of the bridge, and stretches away with Imam Khomeini St as the main drag. The bazaar is the most lively part of town, and is mainly to the west of Imam Khomeini St, between Esteghlal Sq and Shohada Sq.
Banks in Minab don’t change money, so bring as much as you’ll need. Kara Coffeenet (Jahangir Amine St; internet per hr IR9000; 9am-2pm & 5-9pm) is in an arcade about 150m