Iran - Andrew Burke [253]
For travellers, the region hasn’t been quite so attractive since the Bam earthquake in 2003 flattened the city and wrought havoc upon the monumental adobe Arg-e Bam. Rebuilding work on the Arg is ongoing, and Bam’s soothing date groves and strong tradition of hospitality still reward a visit. But taking in a few other places will round out your trip. Sleeping in the cave hotel in Meymand is a fun way to start, and Kerman itself is interesting, and an ideal base for day- and overnight-trips to the small but historic towns of Rayen and Mahan, excursions to nomad communities and camel-trekking trips. But the highlight is surely the journey to Shahdad and the Kaluts, where enormous ‘sand castles’ stand like broken teeth punctuating the earth for as far as the eye can see and you can sleep in a ‘million star hotel’.
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HIGHLIGHTS
Sleep in a cave in Meymand (opposite), the troglodyte village without a million tourists
Marvel at the gardens and historic mausoleum in Mahan
Lunch in Kerman’s Hamam-e Vakil Chaykhaneh
Watch sunset over the Kaluts, then bed down under a million stars
Wander through the Arg-e Bam, still a highlight even after the earthquake
Check out the less-imposing but more-intact ‘new Arg’ at picturesque Rayen
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MEYMAND
pop 60 in summer, 130 in winter / elev 2240m
‘This mosque is about 180 years old,’ said the guide, ‘it’s the newest building in the village.’ Welcome to Meymand, a troglodyte village about equidistant from Shiraz, Yazd and Kerman. Meymand has been continuously occupied for more than 3000 years and is thought to have originally been inhabited by sun-worshippers. The village consists of 2560 rooms in 406 cave homes dug into the walls of a valley, though most are now uninhabited. It’s similar to Cappadocia in Turkey, albeit on a much smaller scale…and without the hordes of tourists.
Meymand isn’t exactly busy, but it sees enough day-trippers that the elderly village women have taken to selling locally woven baskets, wild herbs and traditional nomad hats (about IR60,000) made of namad (wool soaked and pressed until it mats together). If you have someone to translate for you, the herbs are pretty interesting, too. Dentally challenged Salma prescribed us herbs to treat diabetes and headache, and told us their medicinal use has been understood by her family for generations. Given her mother is 97 and her father 115, she might be onto something. A university project has built an interesting cave museum and the village hammam (bathhouse) was being restored when we visited.
Sleeping & Eating
To get the most from Meymand it’s best to stay overnight, sleeping in a cave house that has barely changed in thousands of years. On the west side of the valley near the entrance to town, eight rooms of various size have been converted into the Meymand Guesthouse ( 0913 356 3442 for Mr Hajirahimi, or 0351 622 5857 in Yazd; www.meymandtour.com; per person full board first/subsequent nights IR350,000/200,000). With namad carpets on the floors, beds carved into the walls and warm lighting, it’s easy to be transported to another time. Bathrooms are shared but clean, with steaming showers. Mr Hajirahimi is the manager and speaks enough English to answer most questions.
The three meals are prepared by village women and often involve ingredients grown locally.
Getting There & Away
To get to Meymand you first have to get to Shahr-e