Iran - Andrew Burke [256]
* * *
BALUCHIS
Sistan va Baluchestan and, to a lesser extent, Kerman provinces are home to about 1.5 million Baluchis, or about 2% of Iran’s population. These Baluchis are among a much greater population whose traditional lands cross the Baluchestan desert deep into Afghanistan and Pakistan, where Quetta is their regional capital. Roughly half of all Baluchis are nomadic, living in tents and migrating in pursuit of seasonal pastures. They speak Baluchi, a language related to Pashtu, and the majority are Sunni Muslims.
Baluchis are easily recognisable for their darker skin and distinctive clothing. You won’t see many all-enveloping black chadors in these parts, with women choosing more colourful attire and men wearing the shalwar kameez, a long loose shirt and baggy trousers that will be familiar to anyone who was travelled in Pakistan. The Baluchi’s handiwork and embroidery are also similar to that found in Pakistan and India. Baluchis are famous for camel races, though you’ll be very lucky to find one.
Given they look, dress and worship differently to most Iranians, it’s no surprise that Baluchis are widely distrusted in the rest of the country.
* * *
Dangers & Annoyances
Kerman itself is reasonably safe, though there are a lot of drug addicts so it’s worth taking extra care, especially walking around at night, particularly in poorly lit parks. The road from Kerman to Bam is busy but has on rare occasions been targeted by kidnappers. If you’re cycling or driving alone, consider finding a friend. Click here for more information.
Sights
GRAND BAZAAR (BAZAR-E SARTASARI)
Stretching for 1200m from Tohid Sq northeast to Shohada Sq, Kerman’s Bazar-e Sartasari (End-to-End Bazaar) is one of the oldest trading centres in Iran. This main thoroughfare is made up of four smaller bazaars, and a further 20 or so branch off to the north and south. It is, however, easy enough to navigate and has a vivacity that should keep you interested, especially in the morning and late afternoon.
Starting at Tohid Sq, the first section is the Bazar-e Ganj Ali Khan, built in the 17th century for Ganj Ali Khan (the governor of Kerman), which soon opens onto the pretty Ganj Ali Khan Square. Built in the Safavid period, this courtyard is home to what was once Kerman’s most important hammam, the Hamam-e Ganj Ali Khan ( 222 5577; Gang Ali Khan Sq; admission IR5000; 8.30am-6pm, until 7.30pm summer), now restored and transformed into a museum. Wonderful frescoes adorn the walls and wax dummies illustrate the workings of a traditional bathhouse. The reception area, for example, was divided so men practising different trades could all disrobe together. Look for the ‘time stones’ at the east and west ends of the hammam; translucent, 10cm-thick alabaster doorways through which bathers could get a rough idea of the time according to how light it was outside.
On the north side of the courtyard is the photogenic Bazar-e Mesgari Shomali (Coppersmith’s Bazaar), and at the square’s northeastern end is Masjed-e Ganj Ali Khan (admission IR2000; 8am-sunset), Ganj Ali Khan’s lavishly decorated private mosque. A caravanserai next door was being restored when we passed.
From the northeastern corner of the square, the Gold Bazaar (Bazar-e Zargaran) leads to a small square with an attractive portal leading to an old (and now closed) madraseh. Follow the steps down into the Hamam-e Ebrahim Khan (admission about IR25,000; 7am-5pm, until 7pm summer), one of Iran’s few traditional bathhouses where men can still be rubbed, scrubbed and beaten. The welcoming manager might show women around if it’s not busy.
The Bazar-e Ekhtiari leads east from the square and passes the Hamam-e Vakil Chaykhaneh before becoming the Bazar-e Vakil; both are about 150 years old. After about 600m the covered bazaar ends and the 700-year-old open-air Bazar-e Mosaffari begins, though there is little evidence of such antiquity. The Jameh Mosque can be entered from this bazaar, and you can then walk