Iran - Andrew Burke [260]
Savaris to Bam (IR25,000) and Rayen (IR15,000) leave from Sarasiyab Sq (about 5km east of Khaju Sq), and to Sirjan from Azadi Sq for IR30,000. Savaris to Mahan (IR5500) leave from Khaju (Kermani) Sq.
If you hire a taxi or guide (see Tours, Click here) it makes sense to see Rayen, Mahan and Bagh-e Shahzde as a day trip from Kerman, or en route to/from Bam.
TRAIN
The 1106km line from Tehran has recently been extended to Bam and should run all the way into Pakistan by 2009. The daily train to Tehran (1st class IR63,150; 15 hours) leaves at 4.45pm and stops at Yazd, Kashan and Qom, but not Esfahan. There are also daily 2nd-class trains to Bam (IR10,000, about two hours, 7.30am) and Yazd (IR16,000, five to six hours, 1pm), which make a pleasant break from all the bus travel.
Train tickets can be bought from Parse Owj or other agencies, saving you the trip to the train station ( 211 0762), 8km southwest of town. Shuttle taxis (IR2000) leave from Azadi Sq for the station, or go dar baste for IR10,000.
Getting Around
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
There is no airport bus. You can take a shuttle taxi along Jomhuri-ye Eslami Blvd from Azadi Sq, or a taxi dar baste for about IR15,000, depending on traffic.
TAXI
Shuttle taxis use Azadi and Shohada Sqs. From Azadi Sq, they run to the bus terminal (IR1500), Bazar-e Vakil and Shohada Sq (IR1000). Taxis all to yourself cost IR10,000 to most destinations around town and at least IR25,000 per hour.
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AROUND KERMAN
Mahan and Rayen are easily reached by public transport, but services to Shahdad are less frequent and nothing at all runs to the Kaluts. Some travellers take a tour or hire a taxi for the day. Depending on how far you go, you can expect a half/full day to cost about IR120,000/220,000. Some drivers might charge by the kilometre – IR1000 at the time of writing.
Mahan
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Mahan, 35km southeast of Kerman, is a picturesque and low-key town that has long been famous as a summer retreat for the wealthy, and for its two main attractions, the Aramgah-e Shah Ne’matollah Vali shrine and Bagh-e Shahzde gardens. Fed by qanats and surrounding natural springs, before the 1979 revolution it was also known for the quality of the locally produced opium. Not any more.
ARAMGAH-E SHAH NE’MATOLLAH VALI
The splendid dome over the Aramgah-e Shah Ne’matollah Vali (admission to museum & roof IR25,000; 8am-5pm, to 8pm summer), the mausoleum of a well-known Sufi dervish, is one of the most recognisable images of eastern Iran. The mausoleum dates from the early 15th century, when it was built by an Indian king who was an adherent of Shah Ne’matollah Vali’s teachings. However, many of the other religious buildings in the surrounding complex were built during the reign of Shah Abbas I and during the 18th century. The mausoleum is renowned for its tiles, the seven Indian doors throughout the building, some inlaid with ivory, and its stunning blue-tiled domes. But we like the small, tranquil prayer room where a dervish, who is said to have stayed in this room on his regular visits, has painted the walls and ceiling with calligraphy in spiral wheel pattern – ask nicely to be let in.
You can see most of the complex without paying, but the entrance ticket allows you into a small museum and then up to the roof. The views from here are superb and, assuming the repair work is finished, photographers will be rather excited by the vast (and dented) Safavid-era cupola and Qajar minarets, which can be climbed. There is a decent bookshop in the courtyard.
The mausoleum is smack bang in the middle of Mahan, and minibuses (IR1000) and savaris (IR5500) from Kerman will take you straight to it.
BAGH-E SHAHZDE
Arriving at the handsome Bagh-e Shahzde (admission IR4000; 9am-6pm, 8am-11pm summer) is like being beamed onto a different planet. One second you’re in the arid semidesert, the next it’s all flowing qanat water and tall green trees. The beautifully maintained grounds, built