Iran - Andrew Burke [266]
(Some of) The Drug Smugglers
In August 2007 a Belgian couple driving overland were abducted on the road between Bam and Zahedan. The kidnappers were not extremists, but a well-organised group of drug smugglers whose leader demanded the release of his imprisoned son. The woman was released after four days but the man, Stefaan Boeve, was held for 34 days in Iran, Pakistan and Afghanistan before finally being released. Stefaan told us by email he was treated relatively ‘well, according to their standard, sleeping open air on hard rocks and with one blanket.’ But he urged other travellers to be cautious and travel in groups.
While Stefaan was released, the smuggler’s son was not, and three weeks later the smuggler abducted a Japanese traveller from a street in Bam. They again demanded the son’s release. As we went to press Satoshi Nakamura was still being held several months later, though he was reportedly in good health.
What to do?
The road from Kerman to Bam, Zahedan and Pakistan is unavoidable if you want to travel overland to or from Pakistan. Clearly it’s not completely safe, but people continue to do it, usually without trouble. The best plan is to do your research. Read the Thorn Tree (www.lonelyplanet.com/thorntree) and the message board (it’s called HUBB) of www.horizonsunlimited.com/hubb/middle-east/ferry-to-iran-oman-uae-21170-2 for updates, and ask again at each stop as you head east. If you’re driving, you might want to link up with other vehicles in Kerman, or definitely in Bam, where Akbar’s (see Akbar Tourist Guest House, opposite) is the place to meet other overlanders.
You could also get your hotel to inform the police and, assuming things are still dangerous, you’ll get an armed escort. On our return from Zabol to Zahedan our savari travelled in an escorted convoy, which had the added benefit of keeping the savari driver down to a relatively sane 120km/h. If you’re travelling by public transport, take the bus and keep a low profile.
Until there has been a prolonged period without a kidnapping, it’s best to play it safe. If you plan to travel in your own vehicle beyond Bam, get an escort. If you’re on public transport, try to keep a low profile.
Getting kidnapped can ruin your holiday (understatement alert), but if you do get very unlucky and it happens to you, take some comfort in the knowledge that, so far at least, all the travellers abducted by smugglers have eventually been released unharmed. Finally, help other travellers by writing about your trip on the Middle East branch of the Thorn Tree.
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ZAHEDAN
0541 / pop 534,000
Zahedan is capital of the desolate and near-lawless Sistan va Baluchestan province. It has few attractions of its own (very few), but its proximity to the only legal crossing point between Iran and Pakistan means most overlanders will stop here. Most travellers don’t stay long, and restrictive security meant that when we passed there were even fewer reasons to hang around (Click here).
Outside Zahedan there are a couple of worthy day trips, notably to Zabol and Kuh-e Khajeh. If you’re very lucky you might be in town for a camel race (mosabagheh-ye shotor-e davani), a traditional Baluchi activity usually held in summer.
Orientation
Zahedan is a flat, dusty, featureless town. Most visitors will only worry about getting from the airport or bus terminal to their hotel and back, which is easy to do. Although the whole of Zahedan seems to be one huge marketplace with no particular focus, Bazar-e Ruz is best considered the centre of town.
Information
CONSULATES
Indian Consulate ( 322 2337; off Imam Khomeini St; 9am-1.30pm & 2.30-5pm Sun-Thu) Visas issued in four to five days with a letter from your embassy.
Pakistani Consulate ( 322 3389; Pahlavani St; 9.30am-2.30pm Sat-Wed) No-longer issues visas to non-Iranians; will send you to Tehran.
EMERGENCY
Khatam Hospital ( 322 0501; Motahhari Blvd)
Police headquarters ( 110) Near the bazaar.
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