Iran - Andrew Burke [277]
Tourist Inn (Hotel Jahangardi; 552 0034; fax 552 2279; Valiasr St km8; tw/bungalow US$42/55) This long-established place has the most magical location of several Nahar Khoran forest places. Compact, tastefully furnished bungalows are fairly closely packed through pines and palms that twinkle merrily in multicoloured evening lights. Avoid the tired, cheaper rooms above the restaurant. Pleasant outdoor teahouse.
Hotel Shahrdari ( 552 4077; Nahar Khoran Sq; tw US$42) This has a faint grandeur and some rooms are decently equipped. Six have a private bathroom and a Western toilet lurking in what looks like a wardrobe. Absurdly, there’s no discount for rooms with shared bathrooms. It’s 250m north of the Tourist Inn.
Hotel Farhangian ( 552 1652; Valiasr St km4; tr/q/5-bed IR315,555/420,760/525,925; ) Rooms in this family-oriented hotel aren’t quite as smart as the very professional lobby might suggest, but they’re new, spacious and fully equipped. No English sign.
Hotel Rahumah ( 552 0050; Valiasr St km7; r IR400,000-450,000; ) The 10 rooms above this Nahar Khoran restaurant are small suites with little kitchenettes and there’s a modish bar-style area. Back rooms face the woods with the murmur of streams. It’s approximately opposite Coffee Soufi café. No English sign.
Eating
Sofrakhane Sonati Darvish ( 226 8581; Laleh 6th Alley, off Shohoda St; meals IR25,000-45,000; 11am-11pm) In a 300-year-old domed chamber hung with ships’ wheels and lanterns, the Darvish is by far Gorgan’s most intriguing restaurant…if you can find it. Menus are limited but the kababs are superlatively succulent. Around 9pm most evenings there’s live traditional Persian music from owner-manager Ahmad Morshe who speaks fluent Romanian plus a little English.
Absha Restaurant ( 222 2993; Imam Khomeini St; meals IR20,000-50,000; noon-4pm & 7.30-10pm) The smartest of many eateries around Shahrdari Sq for decent polo-morgh (chicken and rice) and ghorme sabzi (green mix of diced meat, beans and vegetables, served with rice). An unpretentious place next door serves ice cream and fresh-squeezed fruit juice.
For pizzerias, head down Valiasr St. Continue all the way to Nahar Khoran for outdoor teahouses, some nicer restaurants and the eccentric Guri ( 552 4891; Valiasr St km6; kababs IR15,000; 4pm-1am), whose main building is shaped like a giant samovar topped by a big concrete teapot.
Getting There & Away
AIR
There are daily flights to Tehran (IR315,000) on Iran Air and Iran Aseman. Iran Air flies to Mashhad (IR324,000) thrice weekly. English-speaking Komeil Golestan Tour & Travel ( 232 6664; komeilgolestan@samopardaz.com; Valiasr St, cnr Edalat 21st St; 8.30am-7pm Sat-Wed, 8.30am-2pm Thu) sells the tickets.
BUS, MINIBUS & SAVARI
From the big main terminal (Enqelab Sq), bus destinations include the following (prices are for mahmooly/Volvo):
Many through-buses to/from Mashhad don’t bother with the terminal, instead dropping-off and picking-up passengers at Enqelab Sq and/or just east of Mofateh Sq. A well-organised minibus terminal directly east of the bus terminal has frequent as-full services to Aq Qal’eh (IR1000, 20 minutes), Bandar-e Torkaman (IR2000, 40 minutes), Behshahr (IR3500), Kordkuy (IR1500) and Sari (IR6000, two hours). Savaris to Aq Qal’eh leave from the central reservation at Enqelab Sq.
Minibuses/savaris for Aliabad (IR1750/6000), Azad Shahr (IR3000/12,000) and Gonbad-e-Kavus (IR4000/15,000, 1½ hours) use Istgah Gonbad (Blvd Jorjan), a small yard at the eastern edge of town.
TRAIN
Gorgan–Tehran services (IR27,000 to IR40,000, 11 hours) travel overnight in both directions.
Getting Around
Convenient shuttle taxis (from IR750) run from predictable points near Shahrdari Sq. Most city buses start from Panzhdah Metri 2nd Alley. However, for Nahar Khoran Sq and upper Valiasr St, savaris (IR1500) and bus 29 (pre-paid ticket IR250, every 20 minutes) start from Valiasr Sq. Getting shuttle taxis back from Nahar Khoran isn’t always easy so pre-buy a bus ticket in case.
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AROUND GORGAN
Kordkuy
0173 / pop 31,000