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By Root 1630 0

Being banished beyond was equivalent to capital punishment. Called Qezel Alam (Red Snake) in Turkmen, it stretched over 160km between the Golestan Mountains and the Caspian and probably dates from the 6th century, making any reference to Alexander the Great mere romantic fiction. Comprehensively cannibalised for building materials over the centuries it’s now little more than a muddy undulation. However, a relatively recognisable section, conveniently marked by orange concrete bollards, runs along the northern side of the Tamar–GTS road. Raised some 5m above the fields, the outline of a large, square-planned wall-fort is still easy to make out at Malaisheikh, around 10km west of GTS.

Khalid Nibi Shrine

Dramatically perched above a breathtaking sea of badlands sit three small mausoleums commemorating Khalid Nibi. Although he was a 5th-century Nestorian Christian, the place now attracts Muslim pilgrims during spring and early summer. From the central shrine, a fairly obvious footpath leads down, then right in about 10 minutes to a grassy knoll dotted with remarkable pagan grave-markers. Ancient but of unknown age, these markers include 2m-long spindly phalluses for men and butterfly-shaped stones for women.

From Tamar (off the Kalaleh–Maraveh Tappeh road), Khalid Nibi is 30km by unsurfaced road (allow 90 minutes). Taxis from Minudasht want around IR170,000 return, but they struggle with the steep last kilometre. A 4WD from GTS costs around IR200,000 return.

Aliabad

0173 / pop 45,000

Fan-shaped Kabud Waterfall is accessed by a 20-minute streamside walk through pretty woodlands starting from a clutch of teahouses, 4km south of Aliabad. However, the path becomes a treacherous mudslide when wet.

From Shirabad, 8km off the Aliabad–Azad Shahr road (turn at Khanbebin), an essentially similar but quieter (and less steep) path passes gorgeous mossy rocks and limpid forest pools for a 20-minute stroll to a vertical 20m-chute waterfall in a grooved cliff. Less accessible falls continue above.

Don’t confuse Shirabad with tiny Shirinabad, the last village of an attractive 30km forested valley with tantalising glances up to high mountain-pasture settlements in the side valleys. A tough, summer-only track crosses the high mountains from Shirinabad to Qal’eh Now-e-Kharaqan near Bastam, but finding anyone to rent you a suitable 4WD vehicle is a challenge.

The clean, basic Mehmanpazir Resalat ( 622 2108; Azadshahr Rd; s/tw/tr/q IR50,000/70,000/80,000/90,000) is above a restaurant about 150m east of Aliabad’s Velyat Sq, almost opposite the attractive park. Sign reads ‘Well Come’.

Hotel Kaniyar ( 623 0002; tw/tr/q IR300,000/400,000/450,000), 2km west, has a stylish open-plan lobby-restaurant and Jacuzzis in some rooms. Standards are high but some décor is overly colourful.

Azad Shahr

0174 / pop 38,000

Connecting between Shahrur and Gorgan you’ll probably change savari at this friendly town, formerly known as Shahparsand. At the western end of town, Hotel Park ( 672 2545; Beheshti Blvd; s/tw/tr/ste IR140,000/180,000/240,000/300,000; ) is one of the region’s best-value hotels, with an understated elegance and very well-kept, fully equipped rooms.

Minudasht

0174 / pop 24,000

Backed by beautiful green hills, Minudasht is a useful transport junction between Gonbad-e Kavus and Bojnurd. On the northern ring road, the new Mehmanpazir Minu ( 522 3188; Mashhad Hwy; s/tw/tr/q IR52,000/79,000/84,000/97,000, with private bathroom IR62,000/89,000/104,000/119,000; ) is great value, with fancy Achaemenid-motif bed-heads on the hard beds and air-conditioning in most rooms. The ageing Hotel Esteghlal ( 522 2314; Mashhad Hwy; s/tw/tr/q US$47/55/60/65; ) is hopelessly overpriced and feels spookily like a set from The Shining.

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BOJNURD

0584 / pop 201,000

Capital of newly established North Khorasan province, Bojnurd sits in a bowl of gentle mountains surrounded by mildly attractive rural villages. If changing buses here, check out Ainekhane (Dochenar/Shariati St; admission IR3000), a psychedelically coloured Qajar-era