Iran - Andrew Burke [285]
Excellent value even at foreigner prices, Moshtameh Ferhangi ( 366 4114; local/foreigner d IR70,000/150,000) is a modern, four-storey octagonal tower hotel set in a garden at the top edge of town. It’s unmarked but very obvious: follow Motahhari St up from Imam Sq (10 minutes’ walk). Rooms are big and although a little bare, have smart bathrooms and good views.
By the chairlift and art-park directly above Imam Sq, a basic teahouse spills out into pretty gardens on warm afternoons.
Minibuses (IR2000) and savaris (IR3500) to Semnan leave from Imam St, 500m downhill from Imam Sq. For the picturesque direct route to Pol-e Sefid you’ll need to find a taxi driver gutsy enough to ford the unbridged river en-route.
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DAMGHAN
0232 / pop 55,000
This historic caravan town sits on the edge of the great desert plateau, attractively backed by parched rocky ridges (the highest are discordantly snow-covered well into April). Damghan’s timelessly crumbling mud-walled buildings are rapidly being replaced by modern constructions. However, several ancient religious structures in expertly faceted brick are within easy walking distance of the central area.
The covered bazaar hugs the town’s central east–west axis (Imam Khomeini St) for the block between Chaharshir Sq (with its four gilded lions) and Imam Khomeini Sq, where Bank Tejarat changes US$, Euros and UK pounds. From here, Beheshti St continues northeast towards Mashhad, Motahhari St heads southeast past Tarikhuneh Mosque (400m) to the train station (2km), while the narrow lane due east passes the Jameh Mosque (200m) and Pir Amadar (300m).
Attractive Azadi Blvd leads north from Chaharshir Sq, a pine-lined stream running down its middle. It quickly passes an old (but out-of-bounds) caravanserai to the west and shopping mall (Bazaar Khandaq) to the east. The latter contains friendly but slow Coffeenet Novin (internet per hr IR6000; 8.30am-8pm Sat-Thu, 4-9pm Fri).
Sights
The Tarikhuneh Mosque (Motahhari St; admission IR3000; 8am-1.30pm & 3pm-dusk Sat-Thu) is a unique, partly ruined mud-brick structure whose 18 extraordinarily sturdy rear columns date from about AD 760. That reputedly makes this the second oldest mosque in Iran, possibly starting life as a Zoroastrian palace-temple. The broken columns and part-renovated arches of a colonnaded courtyard are similarly massive and undecorated. But in striking contrast, the 30m-high AD 1038 brick minaret is very finely detailed. Now slightly leaning it’s within the yard of a new mosque next door.
The Jameh Mosque looks outwardly new but was founded a millennium ago. It has another fine brick minaret probably dating from the mid-11th century. Continue walking along the same lane to find the round Pir Alamdar tower. Dating from the AD 1020s, its original conical roof has been replaced by a newer brick dome but the Kufic inscriptions are remarkable and if you can get in (hit-and-miss) the interior is reputedly even finer.
The similar Chehel Dokhtar Tower hides behind the very photogenic Imamzadeh Jafar (Chaharshir Sq), a splendid ancient brick building with round side-towers, arched false-windows and a five-levelled dome culminating in a brick cone. It looks like a movie-set North African castle.
Sleeping & Eating
Amir Hotel ( 523 1776; Varzesh Sq; tw/tr IR120,000/130,000; ) Above a popular restaurant, the good-value Amir has small, comfortable rooms with bathrooms and a friendly reception in the cosy lobby. Varzesh Sq is identifiable by its ‘sport monument’ displaying huge footballs in a giant cup. It’s 1.5km from Chaharshir Sq, one large block north, then three east.
Hotel Danesh ( 523 1121; Beheshti St; s/tw IR200,000/300,000; ) If other hotels are full, the Danesh’s unfussy, well-maintained rooms are quite acceptable,