Iran - Andrew Burke [293]
Hotel Pars (Map; 222 4030; fax 221 4944; Imam Khomeini St 26th Alley; s/d IR100,000/150,000; closes low-season) Mashhad’s oldest hotel, the Pars occupies a 1935 brick building and its manager lived nine years in England. Rooms have ageing en-suite bathrooms but are just as good as many midrange equivalents. The basement sofrakhane sonati is a lovely vaulted teahouse (qalyan IR10,000; open 24 hours in season) with a tandoori oven providing fresh bread to accompany meals.
Vafa Hotel (Map; /fax 225 8179; Anbari Qaqimmaqam Alley; tw IR100,000-150,000, peak season IR200,000) Modest but new rooms have small, fresh showers and squat toilets.
Razi Hotel (Map; 854 1122; fax 854 4099; Razi St; s/tw with breakfast s/d IR110,000/200,000, peak season IR170,000/300,000; ) Characterless, partly-renovated 1960s place with lugubrious front-desk service, ageing bathrooms and pictures akimbo. Passable value in peak season.
Apartment Hotels
Outside peak season many apartment-hotels are often fabulous value but standards vary considerably and pricing is pretty random, rising up to 800% at peak times (when ‘standard’ hotels are often better value). Save a bundle by seeking out those in forgotten smaller alleys. All those reviewed have hot shower and kitchenette.
Al-Naby Hotel (Map; 222 6981; Molla Hashem Lane; tw IR120,000, peak season IR230,000) This six-storey tower has fewer frills than many apartment hotels, lacking the obligatory waterfalls and columns (do you care?). But the smallish rooms are new and very adequate with absolutely fabulous views across the Haram complex from front-facing upper levels.
Taranom Apartment Hotel (Map; 859 5761; Tavakoli Lane; s/d IR200,000/250,000, peak season r from IR800,000; ) Handily right on Falakeh Ab, this very professional eight-storey tower has a cosy mini-atrium with modernist fireplace and comfortably appointed mini-suites with fluffy towels, brilliant hot showers and Western toilets with soft paper.
Hotel Apartment Toranj (Map; 222 0963; Andarzgu St, 11th Alley; s/d/tr IR200,000/250,000/310,000,peak season IR450,000/500,000/600,000; ) The lobby has a big modern chandelier and waterfall feature. Rooms are slightly less grandiose but fine value with fully equipped kitchen, choice of toilet-types in some bathrooms and elegant sash curtains.
Amir Kabir Apartment Hotel (Map; 223 1643; Mohaberat St; ste IR250,000, peak season IR360,000; ) Despite the chandeliers and bulging Corinthian columns this high-service option has great-value if sickly-green suites and fifth-floor views of the shrine complex (for now).
Mehr Apartment Hotel (Map; 851 4797; mehr-apt-hotel@yahoo.com; Karbala St; tr IR250,000, peak season IR550,000; ) Bright and somewhat modernist with reception staff in smart suits and corridors edged in pink marble. Apartments sleep three (double-plus-single) and have a big sitting room but comparatively small bathrooms. Careless Whispers plays in the lift.
Karimkhan Apartment Hotel (Map; 854 4077; fax 854 2844; www.karimkhanhotel.8k.com; off Imam Reza St; d/apt IR300,000/450,000; ) Rooms and corridors attempt something of a retro, semi Art Deco look and bathrooms are impressive with curtained, seat-showers but there’s some wear on the sitting room furniture.
MIDRANGE
In high season this category is usually the best value as prices are comparatively stable year-round.
Hotel Dustan Javad (Map; 223 3791; fax 225 9794; Shahid Golabki Alley, off Sabkar Lane; s/tw/tr IR120,000/150,000/180,000, peak season IR210,000/240,000/270,000) Sweet little suites in a small, family pension-style hotel off a lively but mostly pedestrianised shopping street.
Hotel Madineh (Map; 221 2214; Zeiya Lane; tw/tr IR300,000/350,000 year-round) This 100-room bed-factory wallows in nouveau-riche foibles including aquarium, fountain-grotto, musical elevators and Art Deco–effect coffee shop. Overpriced int the