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Classic-Fiction

Iran - Andrew Burke [302]

By Root 1607 0

three doors. The one to the right is open to all visitors and leads through a small sanctuary into an inner courtyard across which is the AD 1442 ‘New’ Mosque. Look for the magnificent vaulted ceilings and octagonal columns on either side of its prayer hall. It’s ‘new’ compared to the 1302 Atirgh Mosque ( women-only at prayer times) behind you on the same courtyard, which has double-level arch-vaults and fragments of beautiful calligraphy.

The finest gems are hidden behind the other two locked doors in the main iwan. Gatekeeper Qolam Ali Keliddar (who you probably unwittingly met when bagging up your shoes on entering the complex) has the keys. Technically he’s only supposed to open the chunky locks for VIPs or those with a letter from Miras Ferhangi. However, foreign tourists are so rare that you’ll probably count as the former. The small door on the left leads to the 14th-century Kermani Mosque, named after Masoud Kerman who created the splendid mihrab and calligraphy inside. Through the heavy wooden main doors, the 1264 Khaneh Ghe sports ancient graffiti and domed ceilings with particularly well-preserved colourful frescoes.

The complex is 700m east of Valiasr Sq via Mirqaveh, then Maadan Sts.

SLEEPING & EATING

Mosaferkhaneh Me’at Dana ( 222 7569; Natr St, Al Mahdi St, 2nd Alley; s/tw/tr IR50,000/68,000/80,000, with shower IR59,000/87,000/101,000) Clean simple rooms with camp beds and TV. Very close to central Valiasr Sq.

* * *

CROSSING THE AFGHANISTAN BORDER AT DOGHARON

This old Hippie-Trail border ( 7.30am-4.30pm) is open and remarkably easy. Direct Mashhad–Herat buses run twice each morning either way. Or do-it-yourself in hops via Torbat-e Jam and Taybad. Westbound savaris to the border (135km, 150 Afghanis) leave from Herat’s old bus terminal.

* * *

Sima Hotel ( 222 3377; Behesht 1st St, off Imam Khomeini Blvd; s/tw/tr IR57,000/72,000/82,000, with bathroom IR66,500/98,500/108,000) Very green rooms with ageing linen but the better rooms have private squat toilet and shower.

Sakhteman Sefid ( 222 0713; Al Mahdi St; tw IR150,000) At first glance the Sefid appears to have more style than the competition, but much is tatty, road noise can be annoying and the bathrooms are communal. Enter via side stairway. There’s a restaurant downstairs and a semi traditional teahouse in the basement.

GETTING THERE & AWAY

For Mashhad, buses (IR10,000, 2½ hours) use a terminal near Imam Reza Sq, accessed by shuttle taxi along Al-Mahdi St from Valiasr Sq. Savaris (front/back IR35,000/25,000, two hours) depart till around 9pm from nearby.

Savaris to Taybad (IR10,000) leave from Falakeh Sharak.

Taybad

0529 / pop 49,000

Just 18km from the Afghanistan border post, Taybad’s main attraction is the imposing 1444 Molana Mosque ( 7am-dusk), whose towering iwan is of a similar grandeur to that of the Jami complex in Torbat-e Jam. The male-dominated Municipality Hotel ( 422 2269; Gumruk Sq; tw/q IR120,000/150,000) at the northern edge of town has unsophisticated if fairly spacious box-rooms with bathroom, TV and much too much pink. From a point 300m further north, transport leaves for Mashhad (bus/savari IR12,000/40,000, three hours), Torbat-e Jam (savari IR20,000) and Dogharon, the Afghan border (savari/taxi (IR4000/15,000, 20 minutes). Transport to Khaf leaves from near Falakeh Molana, passing the dramatic Karat Minaret after 25km.

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Iran - Andrew Burke [302]

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