Iran - Andrew Burke [317]
Of course, it makes sense not to advertise that you’re part of a same-sex couple. Most hoteliers will accept that you’re ‘just good friends’, though you might find in some places that discretion is the better part of valour when seeking a double bed. In Yazd there is one smooth hotel in the old town noted for being more gay-friendly than others.
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HOLIDAYS
Public holidays commemorate either religious or secular events. It’s worth staying aware of the dates, especially if you are planning to extend your visa. Government offices and just about everything else will close for the morning, at least, on a holiday, but often small businesses will open after lunch. Transport functions fairly normally and hotels remain open, but many restaurants will close. Holidays are sometimes extended for a day if they fall near the Iranian weekend.
At the time of writing the Majlis (parliament) was considering cutting five dates from the holiday roster, including 15 Khordad (Anniversary of Ayatollah Khomeini; ), 30 Safar (Death of Imam Reza; below), 25 Shavval (Death of Imam Jafar Sadegh; below) and 13 Rajab (Birthday of Imam Ali; below).
Religious Holidays
Religious holidays follow the Muslim lunar calendar, which means the corresponding dates in the Western calendar move forward by 10 or 11 days every year.
Tasua (9 Moharram)
Ashura (10 Moharram) 7 January 2009, 27 December 2009, 16 December 2010, 6 December 2011. The anniversary of the martyrdom of Hossein, the third Shiite imam, in battle at Karbala in October AD 680. This is celebrated with religious theatre and sombre parades.
Arbaeen (20 Safar) The 40th day after Ashura.
Death of the Prophet Mohammed (28 Safar) 24 February 2009, 13 February 2010, 3 February 2011, 22 January 2012
Death of Imam Reza (30 Safar)
Birthday of the Prophet Mohammed (17 Rabi’-ol-Avval) 14 March 2009, 3 March 2010, 20 February 2011, 10 February 2012
Anniversary of the death of Fatima (3 Jamadi-l-Okhra) 28 May 2009, 17 May 2010, 7 May 2011, 25 April 2012. Fatima was daughter of Prophet Mohammed.
Birthday of Imam Ali (13 Rajab) 6 July 2009, 26 June 2010, 15 June 2011, 3 June 2012
Mission of Holy Prophet (27 Rajab)
Birthday of Imam Mahdi (15 Shaban) 6 August 2009, 27 July 2010, 17 July 2011, 5 July 2012
Death of Imam Ali (21 Ramazan) 21 September 2008, 11 September 2009, 1 September 2010, 21 August 2011, 10 August 2012
Eid al-Fitr (1 Shavval) 1 October 2008, 20 September 2009, 10 September 2010, 31 August 2011, 19 August 2012. The Festival of the Breaking of the Fast that marks the end of Ramazan. After sunset on the last day of Ramazan large meals are consumed across the country.
Death of Imam Jafar Sadegh (25 Shavval)
Eid-e Ghorban (10 Zu-l-Hejjeh) 8 December 2008, 27 November 2009, 17 November 2010, 6 November 2011, 26 October 2012. Marks the day when Abraham offered to sacrifice his son. Expect to see plenty of sheep being butchered.
Qadir-e Khom (18 Zu-l-Hejjeh) The day Prophet Mohammed appointed Imam Ali as his successor while returning to Mecca.
RAMAZAN (RAMADAN)
During the month known in Iran as Ramazan, Muslims are expected to perform a dawn-to-dusk fast that includes abstaining from all drinks (including water) and from smoking. This is seen less as an unpleasant ordeal than a chance to perform a ritual cleansing of body and mind. Some people, especially in cities, don’t fully observe the fast, but most do for at least part of the month. Some Muslims are exempted from the fast (eg pregnant and menstruating women, travellers, the elderly and the sick), as are non-Muslims but they mustn’t eat or drink in front of others who are fasting.
Ramazan can be a trying period, particularly if it falls in summer when the days are that much longer and the heat and hunger tend to shorten tempers. Businesses and shops keep odd hours and very little serious business gets done. However, public transport continues to function and travellers are exempt from the fast so you don’t need to worry about finding food