Iran - Andrew Burke [319]
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Magnificent Victory of the Islamic Revolution of Iran (11 February; 22 Bahman) The anniversary of Khomeini’s coming to power in 1979.
Oil Nationalisation Day (20 March; 29 Esfand) Commemorates the 1951 nationalisation of the Anglo-Iranian Oil Company.
No Ruz (21 to 24 March; 1 to 4 Farvardin) Iranian New Year.
Islamic Republic Day (1 April; 12 Farvardin) The anniversary of the establishment of the Islamic Republic of Iran in 1979.
Sizdah be Dar (2 April; 13 Farvardin) The 13th day of the Iranian New Year, when Iranians traditionally leave their houses for the day.
Heart-Rending Departure of the Great Leader of the Islamic Republic of Iran (4 June; 14 Khordad) Commemorates the death of Ayatollah Khomeini in 1989. About 500,000 Iranians flock to Tehran, Qom (where he trained and lived) and the village of Khomein (where he was born).
Anniversary of the Arrest of Ayatollah Khomeini (5 June; 15 Khordad) In 1963 Khomeini was arrested after urging the Muslims of the world to rise up against the superpowers.
NO RUZ
No Ruz (see the boxed text, opposite), the Iranian New Year, is a huge family celebration on a par with Christmas in the West. From a practical point of view, Iran virtually shuts down from 21 March (the beginning of new year) and Sizdah be Dar (2 April). Finding hotel accommodation (especially midrange and top end) is very tough from about 18 March until 2 April and all forms of long-distance public transport are heavily booked, though savaris run more frequently making some shorter-hop trips easier than at other times. Most businesses, including many restaurants, close from 21 to 25 March inclusive. It’s not impossible to travel during No Ruz, but you should think twice, then think again, before heading to popular tourist destinations, such as Esfahan, Mashhad, Yazd, Shiraz and anywhere on the Persian Gulf or Caspian coasts. Mountain areas like rural Kordestan and primarily business cities like Tehran and Kermanshah, remain relatively uncrowded. And on the positive side museums and tourist sites stay open much longer hours while some normally closed attractions open specially.
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INSURANCE
A travel insurance policy to cover theft, loss and medical problems is a good idea. Some policies specifically exclude dangerous activities, which can include scuba diving, skiing, motorcycling, even trekking.
You might prefer a policy that pays doctors or hospitals directly rather than you having to pay on the spot and claim later. Check that the policy covers ambulances or an emergency flight home. Make sure the policy covers Iran and adjacent countries if you’re travelling on. Some insurers, particularly in the USA, consider the region a ‘danger zone’ and either exclude it altogether or insist on exorbitant premiums.
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INTERNET ACCESS
In Iran, internet cafés are known as coffeenets, though you’ll rarely find coffee on the menu. You can get online in all Iranian cities and big towns, and a growing number of smaller centres. Most coffeenets charge about IR10,000 an hour; more in hotels. Speeds are variable, but most cities now have ADSL connections. If you plan to use a messenger service, note that Yahoo! Messenger (www.yahoo.com) is used almost everywhere, but MSN Messenger (www.msn.com) is harder to find. Skype (www.skype.com) is growing in popularity, but many coffeenets don’t have headsets.
Unfortunately, Iranian coffeenets are badly infected with viruses. During this research trip our USB memory stick picked up more than 50 viruses, worms, Trojan horses, key-loggers and other nasties. So be careful about doing internet banking unless the anti-virus software is up to date, and scan